Tour d'Argent Re-Imagined

Tour d'Argent
Photo courtesy D.A.E. Originals

D.A.E. Originals "Tour d'Argent" costume, from the 2005 Vivian & Monty Jet Set Romance Collection, is a faithful recreation of Christian Dior's 1947 "Mystere" black wool crepe coat. The late afternoon coat dress features a pleated green collar and matching skirt inset of iridescent satin organza.

Mystere coat by Christian Dior.
Photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe for Harper's Bazaar courtesy fitnyc.edu

Although I love the original design of Tour d'Argent, which I purchased on the secondary market, the pleated collar did not lay correctly. So you probably can guess where I'm going with this.....Tour d'Argent, re-imagined!

Miss Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall wears a re-styled Tour d'Argent, now re-imagined in redingote style. A redingote is a light-weight flared coat secured at the waist and took its inspiration from historical riding attire. The 1940's and 50's versions were often paired with a coordinating print dress.

1950's Dress with Redingote
Courtesy betsyvintage.com

1950's Redingote ensemble
courtesy vintagepatterns.wikia.com

1950's Redingote with collar
courtesy vintagepatterns.wikia.com

1940's Redingote courtesy sovintagepatterns.com

Credits for Miss Marshall's restyled costume:

Underneath Tour d'Argent is the skirt from Fashion Plot and blouse from Turbulence. Accessories include the purse from Lucky Stripe and gloves from Dark Desire. All Ashton Drake. Hat is from Sandra Stillwell. Layered bow accents are from various outfits. Everything's Coming Up Roses Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

Haute Madra

 

Everyone's favorite fashion doll diva is back, exquisitely executed in resin by Mel Odom and JamieShow.

"Spotted in Manhattan" Madra Lord wears her original wigcap that has been restyled to give her trademark bangs a fuller look. Miss Lord's marvelous organdy dotted blouse from "Heartless" is layered over the black satin sheath from "Black Ribbon", both from Ashton Drake's Gene Marshall Collection. Earrings are from Integrity and the OOAK cigarette holder is from Mystyna.

For years, Miss Lord reigned as queen of Hollywood. Now she reigns as queen of the catwalk. The circa 1950's sheath is from The Couture Touch. Accessories include restyled jewelry from D.A.E. Originals, gloves from Ashton Drake, and hat from Hamilton Toys accented with a bow recycled from a Mattel Barbie doll hat. The bleach blonde bobbed wig is from Monique.

There is nothing more synonymous than sumptuous fur and Madra Lord. OOAK hat and earrings are from The Couture Touch, fur drape from miniature furrier PD Root, gloves from Ashton Drake. Auburn wigcap was borrowed from J'Adore Gene Marshall.

"Spotted in Manhattan" Madra Lord wears a Christian Dior inspired cream satin halter gown with leopard accents, circa 1950. The matching leopard shoes are to-die-for. OOAK cigarette holder is from Mystyna. Carrot red bobbed wig is from Monique.

Christian Dior, 1950

Shades of Red, 1949

Venetian red velvet suit, scarf, and hat.  Suit by Adele Simpson.  Jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels.

Guava red wool suit, challis blouse, bowler hat; all by Christian Dior.

Photo by Coffin

Tomato red worn with black: rayon velvet dinner skirt, black wool jersey beaded top.  By Larry Aldrich.  Love the surprise of the fabulous shaped hat!

Photo by Horst

Ruby red all the way: French silk velvet, street-length suit by Kraus.  Jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels.

Source:  Vogue, September 1, 1949.

Couture Barbie

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Blush definitely becomes her.  This striking African American Silkstone Barbie looks haute so couture in Mattel's Dior inspired cocktail dress "Blush Becomes Her" from the BFMC.  The marvelous marabou feather hat is from The Couture Touch.

Dior Wasp-Waist Dress

Two silhouettes dominated in the late 1940's:  The first consisted of a fitted bodice, relaxed shoulders, tight belted waist, and a longer billowing full skirt dubbed "The New Look".  The second differed only that the skirt was pencil slim with a vent or pleat to permit movement.  Both silhouettes accented Dior's corseted "wasp" waist.

This early 1950's Vogue photo by Irving Penn shows Dior's wasp-waist black satin dress.  The skirt was pinned in the back to highlight the silhouette and had to be unpinned so that the model could walk.  It's a cinch that Gene Marshall fans will recognize this dress.  It was the inspiration for Integrity's "It's a Cinch" Gene Marshall Dressed doll.

A Lady Knows that's It's a Cinch to look fabulous when wearing Dior!   Ashton Drake's A Lady Knows Gene (minus her bangs and given an Integrity articulated body) models the dress and earrings from It's a Cinch.  The gloves are borrowed from Fringe Festival Ivy Jordan, the hat from Bogue's Vogues, and the shoes are from Joe Tai.

Cocktails, Anyone?

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Continental Holiday Silkstone Barbie doll is ready for the cocktail hour in Mattel's vintage "Red Flare" velveteen coat with matching pillbox hat and envelope purse (1962-65).  It is the perfect compliment to "Silken Flame" reproduction dress by Mattel.  White gloves and pearls complete this classic ensemble. 

From Reproduction Booklet

#939 RED FLARE 

"Luscious red velvet ensemble.  Flared coat with bell sleeves and white satin lining. Matching pillbox hat, handbag; long white gloves and red shoes. $3.00."

Photo courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Christian Dior was the first to name the early evening frock a "cocktail" dress in the late 1940's and thus began a thriving market for cocktail specific fashions.  Here is Dior's "Pisanelle" cocktail ensemble from his fall/winter 1949-50 collection. The ensemble is navy and blue silk satin with navy silk velvet. Perhaps this was the inspiration for Mattel's "Red Flare" coat design a decade later?

The New Look

The New Look was primarily the creation of one man, Christian Dior.  After the fabric restrictions of World War 2, The New Look utilized luxurious fabrics and lavish designs.  Skirts became full, sweeping to almost ankle length (11 inches from the ground).  Each panel of a New Look skirt was individually lined with an extra ruffle at the waist to make pleats or gathers jut out sharply over the hips.  Jackets were figure hugging with decollete necklines, long narrow sleeves, and often accented with pockets, tucks, and button details.  To achieve the ultra narrow waistline, Dior devised a special built-in "waspie" corset. 

The New Look suits and dresses were accompanied by the most glamorous hats.  From dramatic, wide brimmed black hats to the delightful head-hugging hats that were artfully decorated with elaborate embroidery and trimmings.

For his first major collection in the Spring of 1947, Dior created his now iconic "Bar Suit".

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The "Bar Suit" was comprised of a silk shantung fitted jacket with sloped shoulders, cinched waist, and padded hips.  The black pleated wool skirt was full and longer in length.  Accessories often included a wide brimmed hat, umbrella, pumps, and short leather gloves.  Photo courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Collection.

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In 1996, Mattel produced the 50th Anniversary Christian Dior Barbie Doll.  This wonderful miniature replica of the famous "Bar Suit" is worn by "The Interview" BFM Silkstone Barbie doll.  Leopard muff borrowed from another Mattel ensemble.

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In 1999, Ashton Drake produced "Love, Paris" Gene Marshall, a dressed doll designed by Jose Ferrand.  It consisted of a grey fitted jacket over a full circle skirt with the new longer length, supported by an underskirt of ruffled black organza that provides fullness and lift.  It is worn by Integrity's Silhouette of the 1950's Ivy Jordan.

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Original accessories consisted of a pink wide brimmed hat and matching purse.  For this photo shoot, I used the hat from Ashton Drake's "Lucky Stripe", black beaded gloves from AD's "Embassy Luncheon", umbrella from Fashion Boulevard, and pumps from Joe Tai.

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