Season's Greetings!

Miss Gene Marshall

Best Wishes for the Holidays and Happiness Throughout the New Year!

A Season for Travel

"Portraits of Fashion" by Flexees Foundations. Vogue, November 15, 1940.

A classic tailored ensemble will carry you to your destination in style.  It is a fashion for all locales, all climates, all seasons.

Miss Gene Marshall

Chic Gene Marshall is all set to go places in a smartly tailored suit ensemble.  Jacket, gloves, and brooch are from Ashton Drake.  Scarf from Mattel.  Hat, skirt, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Cocoa Rose Gene Marshall appears courtesy of Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

Photo Credit:  Collection Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.

A chic woolen suit by Jacques Fath perfect for everyday wear around town.  The double-breasted jacket style with vertical pocket detailing was a favorite of Fath's until 1945.  Photographed in Paris, circa 1942.

Resources:

Vogue, November 15, 1940.

Fashion, The 20th Century by Francois Baudot.

Fashionably Forties Felt Tilt Topper

A DIY Project for Gene Marshall & Friends

Gene Marshall

You can easily make stylish hats for your favorite fashion doll diva by using simple objects as a hat block.  Miss Marshall's smartly tailored felt topper uses the bottom of a travel size bottle to form the crown.  

The first thing you'll need is an appropriate bottle for your hat.  You might just find the perfect one in your kitchen or bathroom.  If not, check out the beauty and skincare aisle at your local drugstore.  Make sure the bottle is long enough to allow for the felt to stretch down, and that it is the same size or smaller than your doll's head.  The bottle used for this project measures 4" in circumference and is 3-1/4" long.

Additional Supplies Needed:

• Wool Felt, I used a 9" x 11" piece
• Foil
• Saran Wrap
• A thick rubber band
• A glass or other round object for tracing a circle
• Dressmaker chalk or other marking tool
• Emery board
• Sewing needle and matching thread
• Scissors
• Ruler or tape measure
• Lightweight Buckram, available at most fabric stores or millinery supply shops
• Assorted trims

To begin, prepare your "hat block" by first covering the bottom of the bottle with foil.  Cover the foil with saran wrap as shown above.

Thoroughly wet felt under the faucet with hot water, stretching the felt in all directions.  This will loosen the fibers and make it easier to stretch and smooth.  Blot excess moisture with a paper towel.  Center the felt over the bottle, smooth down sides, and secure with a rubber band.  Position the rubber band approximately 1/2" or more below the position of your cutting line to ensure a smooth finish.  Begin pulling and stretching the excess felt below the rubber band until it is smooth and wrinkle-free above the rubber band.  Take your time.  Once you are satisfied with the results, let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Once the felt has completely dried, measure the desired height of the crown and mark for cutting before removing it from the "hat block" as shown above.  Tip:  If the bottom of your bottle is slightly rounded, place a small flat ruler or other small flat object on top of the crown and measure down with a tape measure and mark the location with chalk.  This will help you keep an even line around the circumference of the crown.  You are now ready to carefully remove the felt from the "hat block" and cut following your marked cutting line.

To keep the cut edge of the crown from stretching, cut a 1/4" wide strip of buckram the length of the circumference of your "hat block" plus approximately 1/2" or slightly more to allow for overlapping.  Stitch to secure as shown above, then slide off the "hat block".

Insert the buckram inside the crown positioning it so that it is even with the cut edge.  Stitch close to the edge as shown above.  Your trim will hide your stitches.  I found this technique makes it easier to attach the crown to the brim.

For the brim, cut a circle of felt in the desired size.  For Miss Marshall's hat, a 2 1/2" diameter circle was used.  Soften the cut edge by lightly sanding the edge with the fine side of an emery board.  Center the crown over the brim and whip stitch the bottom of the crown to the brim with matching thread as shown above.  To indent the top of the crown, I used the round portion of a wooden chess piece available at most craft stores.  You are now ready to trim your hat as desired.  The hat is secured to the hair with a straight pin.  Because wool felt retains its shape, you can easily adjust the brim to the desired look.

Resources:

Wool felt is available from Edinburgh Imports.com.  They offer an excellent weight felt for doll hats and it comes in a wide assortment of yummy colors.  The felt can be purchased by the yard or by the piece.  The piece size is 9 x 11 inches.  Wool felt may also be available at some fabric and craft stores such as JoAnn Fabrics.  Be sure to purchase wool felt, not synthetic craft felt.

Gene Marshall

Costume Credits:  Tweed jacket from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Skirt from Sandra Stillwell.  Handbag from Madame Alexander.  Hat, gloves, scarf, jewels, and styling are from The Couture Touch. 
White Orchid Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.

Costume Credits for the first photo:  Jacket and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  "Fur" muff is from Integrity.  Brooch from Robert Tonner.  Bracelet from Facets by Marcia.  Scarf from an unknown designer.  Hat, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.
Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

Unexpected Assistants

It just takes a small amount of color to assist in brightening neutral tones as well as black.  The addition of these bright assistants provides unexpected touches that lift the mood and spirit of the woman who wears it.

Bold red enlivens a striped tailored suit worn by film star Gene Marshall.  Suit, hat, scarf, and jewels are from The Couture Touch.  Handbag from Ashton Drake.  Gloves are from Sandra Stillwell.  Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

In the October 15, 1941 issue of Vogue magazine, these uplifting pops of color were referred to as "Bright Assistants".

For late afternoon, a pink sweater with matching gloves uplifts a black suit.  The simple addition of a pink bow on a fur muff along with a black hat accented with pink floral trim can have the same uplifting effect.  Green gloves matched to shoe laces and jewels are another bright idea.  Illustration is by Rene Bouet-Willaumez (RBW) for Vogue.

Passionate purple provides an inspiring pop of color for director Ivy Jordan's tailored ensemble.  Jerkin, skirt, hat, and gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Shirt is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Cigarette holder is from Mystyna.  Lady Director Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

Next Time:

Learn how to make Miss Marshall's Fashionably Forties Felt Tilt Topper.  After all, you just can't have too many hats!

1940's Autumn Dash

Monolithic Studios' film stars Gene Marshall and Madra Lord usher in autumn wearing suit ensembles with the look of dash.

Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall pairs a classic, 1940's edition tailored jacket with a pleated skirt.  Sumptuous fur from PD Root, a chic suede handbag from an unknown designer, and a dramatic topper complete the stylish look.  Suit, hat, scarf, gloves, and jewels are from The Couture Touch.  Blue Fox Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

Madra Lord

Miss Lord proves you can still look chic in a simple suit design that spells wartime economy.  Suit, hat, and scarf are from The Couture Touch.  Gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Earrings from D.A.E. Originals.  Cigarette holder from Mystyna.  Top This Madra Lord, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

October Seasonal Accessorizing

Rejuvenate a solid-colored suit, dress, or coat with the addition of plaid accessories.

A marvelous plaid hat along with a matching wing-collared dickey adds panache to Gene Marshall's suit ensemble.  The jacket is a restyled coat dress from D.A.E. Originals' Tour d'Argent.  Skirt, gloves, and cigarette holder are from Ashton Drake.  Hat, dickey, belt, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Blue Belle Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

A hat, a dickey, a pair of gloves, a belt, or just a handbag.  You don't need a large area of plaid to enliven a basic suit or dress.

A fabulous plaid handbag is all that is needed to complement this Couturier suit from Vogue Patterns, circa 1943.

One Tweed Suit, Two Inspired Looks

Two famous stars from Monolithic Studios choose their favorite look for a classic navy tweed suit.  The quickest way to change the look of an outfit is with accessories.  Let's see what our stars have chosen.

Actress Gene Marshall goes for drama with bold red accessories.  Hat, scarf, and belt are from The Couture Touch.  Brooch is from Mattel.  Gloves are from Ashton Drake.

Jazz singer Violet Waters chooses a stylishly sophisticated look.  Hat, crochet lapel ornament, handbag, and earrings are from The Couture Touch.  Red knit top and gloves are from Ashton Drake's "Good-Bye New York" suit ensemble.  Luscious fur from PD Root replaces the original cape.

Credits:

Ashton Drake's Limited Edition "Travel in Tweed" suit ensemble was designed by Lynne Day for the 2004 Gene Marshall Collection.

Fashion Plot Gene Marshall and Mood Indigo Violet Waters appear courtesy Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

Styling from The Couture Touch.

Fabric of the Season: Herringbone Tweed

The herringbone pattern is a distinctive V-shaped design typically found woven in wool fabric.  It is distinguished from a plain chevron by the break at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zig-zag or the bones of a fish such as a herring.  Herringbone wool tweeds were often used for tailored suits and outerwear during the 1940's.

Film star Gene Marshall wears a bold black and white wool herringbone tweed jacket that will stand up to the first chill winds of fall.  Jacket, hat, and brooch are from The Couture Touch.  Skirt is from Sandra Stillwell.  Scarf and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from Madame Alexander.  Re-designed earrings from Facets by Marcia.  Miss Marshall appears courtesy of Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

From the Chicago Mail Order Company Fall-Winter 1941-42, a wool herringbone tweed coat in versatile black and white.

Between Takes

Solid black wool together with black and white wool houndstooth was used for this smart suit Gene Marshall wears in a 1940 film noir from Monolithic Studios.  Suit, a black wool jersey dickey, cigarette holder, and earrings are from The Couture Touch.  Shoes from Robert Tonner,  The hat from Ashton Drake's "Doing Her Part" has been restyled by adding a white ribbon band and reshaping the brim.  Best Bet Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.  Her wig is from Monique.

September Seasonal Accessorizing

Transform a jacket by adding braid or cording trim.  Depending on how it is used, the effect can either be subtle or dramatic.

Ivy Jordan

Even a small touch such as black cording shaped into a cluster of medallions to form a pocket motif adds distinction to a tailored jacket.  Suit ensemble is from The Couture Touch.  Gloves are from Integrity.  Handbag from Randall Craig.  "V for Tea" Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

During WWII unrationed braid was available in a variety of colors and unique designs.  In addition, furniture departments carried fringed sofa edgings that could be creatively utilized as trim for clothing.  Here are two examples from the September 1941 issue of British Vogue magazine.

Madra Lord

Black loop braiding adds panache to Integrity's remodeled suit [Sparkling Sepia].  Following the seam line, the braiding was hand tacked to the jacket and the ends were tucked under the hem.  Hat and gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Scarf is from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from an unknown designer.  Spotted in Manhattan Madra Lord is from Jamieshow.

This Harzfeld's department store fashion ad from the September 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar features a Nettie Rosenstein beige and black wool suit trimmed with black passementerie.

Madra Lord

From the archives, the white crepe jacket [Par Excellence] from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection is embellished with black trim giving it that distinctive forties look.  Scarf and matching gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Hat and skirt are from Sandra Stillwell.  Booties and doggies are from Ashton Drake.  Deep Rose Madra Lord is from Integrity.

A Classic Wardrobe Staple

The tailored suit featuring a longer length, fitted jacket with masculine shoulders, cuff-less sleeves, and pocket detailing.  Neutral colors are sound choices for maximum versatility.

Monolithic Studios' film star Gene Marshall wears a tailored jacket with the matching slim, straight skirt.  A tilt topper, color-blocked gauntlet gloves, a bold black and white dotted scarf, and jeweled lapel ornament gives this costume a smartly sophisticated look.  OOAK ensemble is from The Couture Touch.

In a dashing manner, Miss Marshall pairs the jacket with a black, A-line skirt.  Dramatic accessories complete this chic ensemble.  Suit, hat, gloves, scarf, and jewels are from The Couture Touch.  Fur and matching fur-trimmed handbag are from PD Root.  Cigarette holder is from Ashton Drake.

Director Ivy Jordan borrows the jacket from Miss Marshall and teams it with a pleated skirt [Doing Her Part], blouse [Star Wardrobe Collection], and jewels; all from Ashton Drake.  Gloves are from Sandra Stillwell.  Jacket, hat, and fur muff are from The Couture Touch.


Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall and Pearls and Pink Ivy Jordan appear courtesy Monolithic Studios and Integrity.

From Sketch to Costume

The costume designer often begins with a sketch of an idea.  "To sketch an idea is the surest way to capture it, the clearest way to explain it. "  Patricia L. Rowe

Irene's sketch of the suit worn by Joan Crawford in "They All Kissed the Bride"
(Columbia, 1942).

Irene Lentz-Gibbons, known simply as Irene, developed a style of boldly signed fashion sketches that became her trademark.  She was a successful designer of not only costumes for film but of the personal wardrobes of Hollywood's most noted stars.

Joan Crawford in the suit by Irene.

Sketches were also commonly utilized within the pages of fashion magazines such as Vogue.

This 1943 illustration from Vogue London highlights fashion collections designed under wartime regulations.  On the left, a tailored suit in oatmeal tweed by Bery.  On the right, a grey tweed coat from Brenner Sports.

Credits:

In a Glamorous Fashion, The Fabulous Years of Hollywood Costume Design by W. Robert Lavine. 

Shorthand Fashion Sketching by Patricia L Rowe.  Fairchild Publications, New York.

Fashion Illustrated, A Review of Women's Dress 1920 - 1950 by Deborah Torrens.

April Seasonal Accessorizing

Bring back a corsage with spring flowers for a jacket as well as a hat.  Repeat the color of the flowers in your outfit.

A single bloom is all that is needed to refresh film star Gene Marshall's smart suit ensemble.  Jacket is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Top and handbag are from Ashton Drake.  Hinged bracelet is from Facet's by Marcia.  Hat, gloves, skirt, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

This marvelous hat by Legroux Soeurs was the inspiration for Miss Marshall's topper.  Illustration is by Rene Gruau for the 1939 cover of Chapeaux mode.  Courtesy HPRINTS.

More Felts with Forties Flair

What better way to refresh a tailored suit for a new season than with a new hat.  Monolithic Studios' stars Madra Lord and Gene Marshall choose their favorite felt with a decidedly forties flair.

Madra Lord

Luscious spring blooms and a coordinating grosgrain hat band accents Miss Lord's stylish topper.  Suit is from Integrity.  Gloves and scarf are from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from PD Root. 

Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall's asymmetric hat features a dramatic floral trimmed bow and a scarf draped to one side.  Jacket is from Ashton Drake.  Skirt and gloves are from Sandra Stillwell.  Earrings from Facets by Marcia. 

Spotted in Manhattan Madra Lord and White Orchid Gene Marshall are from Jamieshow.

Hats and styling are from The Couture Touch.

Top of the Morning to You!

Happy Saint Patrick's Day!

May the luck of the Irish by with you.

Chic Neutrality

Black and white paired with muted shades of earth tones can give an outfit a refined sense of elegance and sophistication.

Spotted at a press event, film star Gene Marshall wears a stylish suit ensemble in chic neutral tones.  Jacket and handbag are from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Fur drape is from PD Root.  Cigarette holder from Mystyna.  Miss Marshall's hat, gloves, scarf, skirt, and jewels are from The Couture Touch. 

Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.  

A Felt with Forties Flair

Monolithic Studios' star Gene Marshall along with pal Ivy Jordan debut a stylish new topper that is actually a 2 inch felt craft hat available in black and ready for custom trimming.  The hat's vintage shaping makes it the perfect accessory for 1940's tailored suits.

Gene Marshall

The hat trimmed simply with a narrow black suede band and a dramatic feather.  Jacket from Ashton Drake's Star Wardrobe Collection.  Scarf, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Fab Lab craft felt hat is from Jo-Ann Fabrics.

Ivy Jordan

A similar style craft hat is accented with a grosgrain band and floral trim.  Jacket from D.A.E. Originals.  Scarf, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Marigold Market black felt top hat is from Hobby Lobby.


"Symphony in G" Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

"V for Tea" Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

3 Ways with Flowers & Bows

From the pages of a leading fashion magazine, Monolithic Studios' film stars Gene Marshall and Madra Lord along with iconic fashion model Barbie show their favorite ways with flowers and bows.

The jacket from Love, Paris is updated with a floral accented bow at the neckline and two small black bows at the waistline.  Teamed with a slim, black pleated skirt gives Miss Marshall's ensemble panache.  Re-shaped hat is from Sandra Stillwell.  Jacket and jewels are from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from Robert Tonner.  Skirt, gloves, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Destiny Gene Marshall, re-coiffed and enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Appearing on the editorial page, Miss Lord wears a delightful three strand pearl necklace accented with a ribbon flower recycled from Gene Marshall's Press Conference hat.  A small metal hook from a hook & eye closure was sewn to the back of the flower.  The flower is attached by simply hooking it over the pearls.  If necessary, use a mini, needle nose jewelry plier to adjust the hook in order to accommodate larger pearls.  Top is from Ashton Drake's A Lady Knows.  Special Scene Madra Lord is from Integrity.

The designers of Barbie's chic suit were right on trend with the jeweled ribbon bow accent.  A jeweled button could also be sewn on a ribbon bow for a similar effect.  The OOAK turban is from The Couture Touch.  Trace of Lace Silkstone Barbie (re-styled) and the Tweed Indeed suit are from Mattel.

January Seasonal Accessorizing

Brighten a winter coat or jacket by adding a flower corsage in a rich, vivid color.  Carry a muff and repeat the flowers on the muff, or match your gloves or handbag to the flowers.

Monolithic Studios' grande dame Miss Madra Lord accents her tweed car coat with dramatic roses matched to the piping on her handbag.  The corsage is actually the hair ornament from Ashton Drake's Pinque Passion evening ensemble.  Hat, jacket, skirt, and scarf are from The Couture Touch.  Handbag and gloves are from Sandra Stillwell.  Top This Madra Lord, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Director Ivy Jordan wears a tweed wool suit ensemble updated with rich florals that were salvaged from Ashton Drake's The Perfect Gift.  The fur collar from Sandra Stillwell's Lotta Moola costume was fashioned into the dramatic muff.  Suit is from Ashton Drake.  Gloves from Sandra Stillwell.  Suede, detachable, wrist gauntlets were added to the gloves.  Hat, ascot, belt, bar pin, and gauntlets are from The Couture Touch.  Lady Director Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

Changing accessories with the season is one of the easiest ways to look fresh and up-to-the-minute.  Join us each month as we highlight ideas for updating a wardrobe with seasonal accessorizing.