Dressing for the Cocktail Hour

A chic daytime dress superbly executed in sumptuous silks or satins and topped with an elegant chapeau. Gloves, handbag, and costume jewelry mandatory. In the late 1940's, Dior coined the term "cocktail dress", and with it our fascination with the cocktail culture.

During the 1940's. black was the favorite color for the cocktail dress. J'Adore Gene Marshall wears a classic Bogue's Vogues black silk sheath accented with a side drape. Accessories include a marvelous black suede and pleated faille toque with jet beading accented with a lavish turquoise feather cockade and a matching structured handbag, both from The Couture Touch. "Diamond" jewelry and bow-enhanced black gloves are from Ashton Drake.

1950's cocktail dresses were either form-fitting or full-skirted with low plunging necklines and cinched waists. Silkstone Barbie Parisienne Pretty wears the navy silk stunner from Haute Doll Magazine's D.A.E. Original's exclusive "Weekend in New York" set. She wears her original earrings and hat. Pearl necklace and fur are from Mattel.

By the 1960's pastel colors were the preferred choice for cocktail dresses. Mattel's Mad Men Joan Holloway wears Integrity's Fashion Royalty yummy "Purple Factor" wiggle sheath borrowed from Adele Makeda. A perfect color for her titan tresses.

Source: metmuseum

The Midnight Mischief of a Madcap Modiste

The mischief?  A madcap murder featuring a most unusual weapon - a specially designed cape with a brooch laced with poison!  Follow: A decidedly deceptive modiste (French for fashionable dressmaker) designs an evening cape that must be closed with both hands thus prompting the intended victim, a model, to put the brooch in her mouth.

The murderess or intended victim?  Victoire Roux models the late afternoon cocktail cape ensemble Midnight Mischief from Mattel's Silkstone Barbie Fashion Model Collection. The original self-bow at the neckline was replaced with a "diamond" brooch. The extravagant, high-crown, beaded and feathered pink silk hat is from The Couture Touch.

Credits:  

Buenos Aires Victoire Roux is from Integrity.

The Case of the Madcap Modiste from the Perry Mason series originally aired on April 30, 1960. Charles le Maire was credited for the special gowns and fashion sketches used in the episode.

Leslie Parrish tries on the cape as
Dorothy Neumann looks on. From the
Perry Mason episode, The Case of the
Madcap Modiste, 1960.

Slip Into Something Fabulous for Cocktails

Gene Marshall slips into the fabulous Cognac Evening cocktail dress, circa 1951, designed by Jose Ferrand exclusively for the 1999 Ashton Drake Gene Marshall Collection.  Miss Marshall chooses to wear a matching pleated velvet hat from The Couture Touch.  Additional accessories include the gold lame clutch from PD Root and cigarette holder by Mystyna.  Her gold and jet choker is a combination of two Ashton Drake necklaces.  J'Adore Gene Marshall is the FDQ Exclusive BJD from Mel Odom and JamieShow.

A 1952 Legroux Soeurs hat.  Photo by Norman Parkinson courtesy My Vintage Vogue.

1950's Cocktail Chic

Madra Lord pulls together a chic cocktail dress from the Monolithic Studio's wardrobe vault. Beginning with the versatile black satin strapless sheath from "Black Ribbon", she adds the pink satin hip drape from "Moments to Remember" both from Ashton Drake.  The black scarf from Robert Tonner's "Cashmere Noir" is draped at the neckline.  To complete the ensemble: pink gloves from Robert Tonner's Theatre de la Mode Collection, shoes from Integrity, and pearl jewelry from Ashton Drake.  The OOAK feathered hat and cigarette holder are from The Couture Touch.  The ultimate accessory?  A fabulous strawberry blonde "Johnny" wig from Monique.

Gene Marshall chooses an OOAK pink wool herringbone cocktail suit and matching hat from The Couture Touch.  Two "diamond" brooches accent the obi sash.  Additional accessories include pink gloves from Ashton Drake, shoes from Integrity, black velvet purse from Madame Alexander, and pearl necklace and bracelet set from D.A.E. Originals.  Gene's chic hairstyle is courtesy of a "Johnny" wig from Monique.

"Postcards from Cannes" Madra Lord and "Swim Suited to a T"  Gene Marshall are from Integrity.
The "Johnny" wig from Monique is available to purchase from Facets by Marcia

Striped Cocktail Suit

Monolithic Studios' diva Miss Madra Lord updates her favorite striped cocktail suit with a luxurious fur collar and matching hat.  Her fabulous oxford shoes are from Joe Tai.

The detachable fur "collar" and matching hat are from Ashton Drake's "Lotta Moola" costume created for Madra Lord for the 2005 Annual Gene Marshall Convention.  "Bandolier Morado" striped suit was created exclusively for the Golden Gate Glamour event by Sandra Stillwell.  I added a rhinestone button to the front of the jacket.  OOAK earrings and cigarette holder are from The Couture Touch, purse from Madame Alexander.  "Flame" Madra Lord is from Integrity's Stepping High Collection.

A French Inspired Cocktail Ensemble

Sometimes just combining pieces from a different costume can dramatically refresh the look of an ensemble.  The black taffeta cocktail dress from Ashton Drake's "Love After Hours" gets a new look utilizing pieces from the "Little Black Dress" costume.  I removed the original flowers from the dress and also the back "bustle" from the checked waist wrap.  The chin strap on the matching hat was tucked inside.  Underneath is the black slip from "Love, Paris".  Long black tricot gloves and black & gold jewelry complete the ensemble.  "On the Avenue" Gene Marshall is my model/muse.  Note:  I found this costume fits better on an Ashton Drake body.  

This little fashion drawing of a cocktail dress silhouette from the March 1949 issue of French Elle magazine was my inspiration. 

A Spanish Influence

Here's a little cocktail number with a Spanish Influence.  Recognize any of the pieces?

Ashton Drake's "Song of Spain" halter top and bolero were layered over the strapless sheath from the "Black Ribbon" costume to create a sensational cocktail dress, circa 1943.  The original gold beads were easily removed from the top and jacket.  Accessories include the fur stole borrowed from Golden Gate Glamour's "Bandolier Morado" suit ensemble, shoes and purse from Robert Tonner, OOAK cocktail hat and gauntlet gloves from The Couture Touch.  OOAK jewelry set unknown.  My model is "Star Entrance" Gene Marshall from Integrity.

Tip:  Position the back of the halter top just above the sheath so that the top will snap securely.

Blue Silk Cocktailer

Click photo to enlarge

Muffy Roberts is ready for the cocktail hour in this sensational blue silk dress and matching floral hat from The Couture Touch.  Gloves, bracelet, and shoes are from Mattel.  Purse from Integrity.

Cocktails, Anyone?

Click photo to enlarge

Continental Holiday Silkstone Barbie doll is ready for the cocktail hour in Mattel's vintage "Red Flare" velveteen coat with matching pillbox hat and envelope purse (1962-65).  It is the perfect compliment to "Silken Flame" reproduction dress by Mattel.  White gloves and pearls complete this classic ensemble. 

From Reproduction Booklet

#939 RED FLARE 

"Luscious red velvet ensemble.  Flared coat with bell sleeves and white satin lining. Matching pillbox hat, handbag; long white gloves and red shoes. $3.00."

Photo courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Christian Dior was the first to name the early evening frock a "cocktail" dress in the late 1940's and thus began a thriving market for cocktail specific fashions.  Here is Dior's "Pisanelle" cocktail ensemble from his fall/winter 1949-50 collection. The ensemble is navy and blue silk satin with navy silk velvet. Perhaps this was the inspiration for Mattel's "Red Flare" coat design a decade later?