Against All Odds

Monolithic Studios' film star Miss Madra Lord

Gene Marshall: Star Extraordinaire

"But Don't Give Madra the Cold Shoulder"

"Monaco" Gene Marshall

"Close your eyes. A dream is about to come true." And with those words, a beautifully sculpted, miniature mannequin with stunning features and meticulous period hairstyles captivated my heart. And of course there was her enviable wardrobe, firmly rooted in Hollywood's Golden Age of the 1940's and 50's, that appealed to my love of vintage fashion. "In a place called Hollywood, a magical star was born." Gene Marshall made her first appearance in 1995. Twenty years later, she is still a Star Extraordinaire!

Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall, newly coiffed in a chic curly style, wears a stunning cocktail dress circa 1950's. "Blue Heaven" was designed by Lynne Day exclusively for Ashton Drake's 2001 Gene Marshall Collection. Fur is from Integrity.

Madra Lord

Inspired by the Hollywood stars of the 1930's, 40's, and 50's, Miss Lord burst upon the scene in 2000 as Gene's rival. Fabulous 1940's Victory rolls updates "Cold Shoulder" Madra Lord's bombshell evening look. Her lavender sheath was borrowed from Integrity's "Fringe Festival" Ivy Jordan, fur from Hunter-Goldblatt, and jewelry from StrayCat.

Credits:

"Monaco" Gene Marshall (1995) and "Cold Shoulder" Madra Lord (2001) are from Mel Odom and Ashton Drake.

Quotes are excerpts from Ashton Drake's first direct mail campaign in 1995.

Blonde Lace

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For the 1937 film Angel, Travis Banton applied one of his signature trademarks of using men's clothing for women in this fabulous costume designed for Marlene Dietrich.  Dietrich often chose to wear masculine clothes off screen as well as on.  Other actresses tried to emulate her style, but few could pull it off as well as she could. 

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Here is a scene from the Ernst Lubitsch film showing Marlene Dietrich in the costume designed by Travis Banton.  Like many of the costume designers in Hollywood, Banton designed for Dietrich on and off the screen.

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Golden Gala Madra Lord looking sophisticated in the miniature version called "Blonde Lace".  The ensemble was designed by Tim Kennedy exclusively for the 1995 Ashton Drake Gene Marshall Collection.  Circa 1941.

Cabana Girls

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Actress Paulette Goddard wears a "dinner-in-cabana" costume designed by Hattie Carnegie perfect for those warm Florida nights.  Made of silk crepe and sequined embroidered.  A real shell clip with diamonds by Fulco Verdura accent the scarf.  Photo by Horst for Vogue, 1941. 

I was inspired to do my own photo shoot with another great actress, Miss Gene Marshall, wearing a similar costume from Ashton Drake.

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Love at First Sight Gene Marshall wears Shorts Story designed by Vince Nowell.  Her head scarf is from A Woman for All Seasons accented with a pearl and "diamond" pin from Mattel.   I substituted the original shoes for the wedge sandals from It Happened in Monterey.  Doll and fashions are from Ashton Drake. Table and statuette from Liz Cole/Retros.

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I was lucky to find a "pin" that perfectly accents the floral print on Gene's delightful costume.

It's all in the Details

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One of the hallmarks of vintage clothing, particularly in the mid 1940's, are the fabulous details such as pleats, tucks, piping, embroidery, and applique.  A great example is the applied binding utilized in this miniature 2-piece day suit designed by Dolly Cipolla for Ashton Drake's Gene Marshall Collection.  The costume is called "Press Conference" and is circa 1944.  The contrasting banding draws attention to Gene's slender waist and hips.  For this photo shoot, I used the tilt hat from Ashton Drake's Star Wardrobe brown accessory collection and added the ribbon flowers from the original hat.   USO Gene is my model/muse.

1940's Day Suit

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"What's she got you haven't got?"  How about a great red suit for Spring 1940!  A perennial favorite, red is passion, energy, beauty, and power. Wear red and you will definitely get noticed.  This photo is from an advertisement for Buick found in the January 1940 issue of Vogue magazine.  Sadly there were no credits given for the photo or for the wonderful ensemble.

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Here is my favorite miniature diva in a similar red crepe 1940's suit from the Star Wardrobe Collection by Ashton Drake.  I narrowed the skirt a bit and added the asymmetrical epaulet detailing at the shoulder.  The hat was a doll show find, and the shoes are borrowed from Robert Tonner's Classic Portrait Joan Crawford.  The table and chair are from Ashton Drake.  My model/muse is a restyled Simply Platinum Gene Marshall from Ashton Drake.

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From the delicate piping on the pockets to the velveteen fabric buttons, I love the intricate detailing on this classic jacket. 

  



Inspirations: Gene Artists

In 1995, Ashton Drake Galleries launched Mel Odom's new fashion doll, Gene Marshall.  I hesitated at first because of her larger size as I only collected Barbie dolls at the time.  But her Vargas-like features and fabulous vintage-inspired wardrobe hooked me. It wasn't long until I discovered some wonderful doll artists that were creating original, one-of-a-kind or limited edition fashions for Gene. In addition to designing for the Barbie doll, many of these artists began adding Gene to their repertoire.  The following are a few of my favorites from my personal collection.  As always, be sure to click each photo to enlarge.  Enjoy the fashion show.

This striking dress is called "Simply Boulevard" by D.A.E. Originals.  I don't know why I missed a lot of their earlier Gene fashions, but was lucky enough to snag this one from a fellow collector.  The hat is from Bogue's Vogues.  The jewelry, gloves, purse, and shoes are from Ashton Drake.  My muse is Ashton Drake's "Love Paris" Gene Marshall.  Click here for D.A.E. Orginal's website

A classic 1950's black silk cocktail sheath and matching hat by Bogue's Vogues.  Jewelry and gloves from Ashton Drake. Shoes by Joe Tai.  Modeled by Integrity's Zita Charles.  Click here for Bogue's Vogues Etsy shop

Another fabulous ensemble by Bogue's Vogues called "1953".  The jacket features Bogue's signature waist detailing.  The earrings, necklace, and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  The handbag and bracelet are from Integrity. Ashton Drake's "Best Bet" Gene Marshall with an Integrity articulated body and Monique wig is the model/muse.  (The original hat to this suit is shown in the first photo accessorizing the dress by D.A.E. Originals.)   Table by Liz Cole for Retros.  Click here for Retros' Etsy shop

I met PD Root at a local doll show a few years back and loved his tailored daywear looks for Gene.  And every girl has to have one of his genuine fur drapes.  This circa 1940's 2-piece ensemble is accented with one of those to die for furs.  My restyled Simply Gene by Ashton Drake is the lucky model.  PD Root's eBay User ID is nunner502000.

"Fond Farewell" was designed exclusively for the 2000 Gene Convention by Mark Middendorf.  This was from a centerpiece doll, limited edition of 55.  "Fond Farewell"  is a circa 1940's grey wool suit with matching fur wrap and black leather structured handbag.  I replaced the original hat with one of my own designs to better fit with my restyled "Ooh La La" Gene from Integrity.  Shoes are from Jennifer Sue.  Click here for Mark Middendorf's website

To end the fashion show, a spectacular evening ensemble by Michael Scott.  I love the alligator print fabric and the design of the jewelry.  The purse is ingeniously attached to the gloves. A perfect look for the sultry Violet Waters by Ashton Drake.  Click here for Michael Scott's website

Fanciful Feathers

Feathers have long been used as decorations for women's hats up until the latter years of World War II when they became difficult to obtain.  After the war cock, pigeon, and glycerinized ostrich feathers were again revived.

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Not only did they utilize feathers, but sometimes the entire bird!  The latter half of the 1930's showed a variety of hat styles like this unusual white feathered bird hat.  Photo from a Vogue 1936 Elizabeth Arden make-up ad. 

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Vogue says:  "You'll be preening your plumage, this autumn - what with feathers on practically every other hat."  That was the caption for this wonderful illustration by Eric from Vogue, 1938.  The black felt tricorn hat is from Louise Bourbon.

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Here is a sensational Vogue cover from 1939.  The fur and feathered tilt hat is by John Frederics.  Photo by Horst.

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This show-stopping, mustard colored felt hat with fabulous ostrich feathers dates from the late thirties, early forties. Maker unknown.   From my private collection. 

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Olive green feathers completely cover this fantastic hat.  Note the two delightful birds in the front.  Labeled: Northridge, New York. Circa 1940's.  From my private collection.

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Turquoise feathers overlay this smart black felt tilt hat. Circa 1940's  Maker unknown.  From my private collection.

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Michelle Tibbetts designed this marvelous, miniature, feathered, cocktail hat for Jose Ferrand's "Cognac Evening" ensemble.  Circa 1951.  From the Gene Marshall Collection by Ashton Drake.  OOAK necklace and fur from PD Root.  My model/muse is Gil-ty Girl Gene Marshall from Integrity.

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Here is a feathered hat I designed for Ashton Drake's "Fit For a Queen" suit ensemble.  Fur from Affordable Designs.  My model/muse is Integrity's Blush Gene Marshall.  Hair by Jim Gaddis.

1940's Suits in Miniature, Part 1

Miniatures have always intrigued me, so it's no surprise that I would be drawn to the wonderful period costumes that were made for Mel Odom's Gene Marshall doll.  The 15.5" mannequin embodies the glamour of the Hollywood era of the 40's and 50's.  Her costumes are miniature versions of real clothes and include fabulous accessories such as furs, hats, gloves, jewelry, shoes and even hose.  For your viewing enjoyment, here are some of my favorite suit ensembles from the 1940's.

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"Hollywood Director Ivy Jordan reviews costume sketches with Madra Lord, the star of her latest film venture."   Pictured on the left:  Integrity's Ivy Jordan, Lady Director, wears Ashton Drake's classic "Travel in Tweed" navy suit, circa 1948 and her own blouse.  Suit designed by Lynne Day.  The OOAK hat and matching gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Pictured on the right:  Integrity's The Jeweled Cat Madra Lord is all business wearing Integrity's "Suited For Fur", a stunning grey wool suit with pink fur accents and pink accessories. 

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Ashton Drake's "Fit For a Queen" brown tweed suit gets a different look with an OOAK turban styled hat, leather gloves, and crochet pin from The Couture Touch.  Fur from P.D. Root, hatbox from Ashton Drake's Travel in Tweed ensemble.  The model is Integrity's Ivy Jordan, Lady Director, with a new hairstyle.  Suit designed by Lynne Day.

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Here is another fabulous suit designed by Lynne Day for Ashton Drake's Gene Marshall Collection.  It is called "First Stop Chicago", circa 1941.  The model is Ashton Drake's Siren of the Night Madra Lord with restyled hair and articulated body from Integrity.

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Integrity's club doll, City Sleeker Zita Charles is wearing a smart houndstooth wool suit with fur trim from the Gene Marshall, Star Wardrobe Collection by Ashton Drake. The wonderfully detailed embroidered gloves and purse are also from the Star Wardrobe Collection.  The hatbox is borrowed from Tonner's Kitty Collier.

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Ashton Drake's Filigree Gene Marshall wears "Good Bye New York", a sensational 1941 suit designed by Doug James.   The fez style hat and gauntlet gloves are from The Couture Touch. 
  
Credits:  Furniture from Liz Cole/Retros, telephone from Ashton Drake's Hot Day in Hollywood accessory set, portfolio & sketches from Ashton Drake.

Get Yourself a Halo!

In the 1940's women's hat styles were varied, from berets to turbans to tilt hats.  One popular style was the off-the-face or "halo" hat.  They were young, fresh and a perfect compliment for hairstyles with a center-part or pompadour ("Victory") rolls.  Sears advertised the "Hollywood Halo Hat" worn by Movie stars such as Loretta Young.  They proclaimed, "Yes!  You Can Wear These!", "Different, but definitely flattering!", and "Every New Dress Deserves a New Hat!".

The Chicago Mail Order Company, in their Fall/Winter 1941-42 catalog, declared:  "It's big hats for Fall ----not just for Summer!  Women love their Drama!" 

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Here are 2 Halo hats geared for Juniors.  The left hat is a kettle-style brim that can be worn either up or down.  It was available in a variety of colors such as Flag red, Black, Santos brown, Royal blue, and Chilean wine.  In 1941, the cost was .95 cents!  The hat on the right is a wool felt accented with a glitter-like gold star-spangled ribbon band that frames the face.  It came in Kelly green with luggage tan, Bright red with black, Black with red, Brown with kelly green, and Royal blue with navy.  The cost was $1.59.

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This Charmcraft, wool felt, kettle brim hat is accented with dramatic veiling and a big ribbon bow in the back.  In addition to all Black and all Brown, it was available in Flag red with a Black veil, Soldier Blue with Navy veil, and Chilean (dark) Wine with Navy veil.  The cost was $1.98.

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Genuine Mink tails highlight a wide V-cut through this unusual Halo brim.   Veiling bands tie the head-hugging crown and floats off in streamers in the back.  This dramatic wool felt hat was available in Black, Dark Brown, Soldier blue, Chilean wine, or Timber (dark) green; all with brown mink fur.  The cost was just $1.69.

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Halo hats are also a great way to update an old dress!  Case in point, a Couture Touch OOAK tweed halo hat and matching gauntlet gloves give a new look to Ashton Drake's "Dark Desire" black crepe dress.  I also added the lace jabot from "The Little Black Dress" ensemble. Fur from PD Root. Purse from Robert Tonner. My model is Ashton Drake's "Love at First Sight" Gene Marshall doll. 

So the next time you are in the market for a new hat, just Get Yourself a Halo!

Sweethearts

With Valentine's Day fast approaching, what better than to talk about sweethearts.  Sweetheart necklines, that is!

Barbara Stanwyck & Henry Fonda

"The Lady Eve", 1941

The sweetheart neckline gets its name from the cut and shape of the neckline.  The sweetheart design features two curves over the bust line which drop and meet at a point in the middle of the bust area.  The graceful curves are very flattering and draw attention to the figure while still offering modest coverage.  The origins of the sweetheart neckline are unclear.  Some date it to the Renaissance age in Italy or to the Court of Isabella in 15th Century Spain.  Some credit 18th Century French designers for creating the neckline shape.  Whatever the origins, it has made a strong impact particularly on women's formal fashions.

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I love this still from "The Lady Eve", a 1941 screwball romantic comedy starring Barbara Stanwyck and Henry Fonda.  Edith Head designed the wonderful costumes.  This iconic evening gown is actually 2 pieces exposing a bare midriff.  The short beaded top has a sweetheart neckline. 

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Ashton Drake's "That Certain Blue Gown" Madra Lord looking fabulous in Violet Water's "Out of the Blue" 1940's inspired evening gown.  This rich blue velvet gown is accented with a turquoise blue shantung gathered bodice, 3/4 length sleeves, and features a sweetheart neckline.  Circa 1944.

Gene Marshall & Company Discover Anne Harper

Dateline Hollywood:  Director Ivy Jordan will use the studio's new costume designer Anne Harper for her latest film "Broadway Babes" starring Gene Marshall and Madra Lord.

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The new Anne Harper Collection by Robert Tonner features a selection of fabulous suits and gowns worthy of a Hollywood star of the 1940's and 1950's era. 

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"Captivatingly Coy" is my favorite of the 3 outfits I have.  I love the asymmetrical detailing of this pink and black ensemble.  A perfect choice for Ashton Drake's "Black Widow" Madra Lord with an Integrity articulated body.  I was pleasantly surprised as to how well this one fits.  Most Tonner fashions can be a little big especially in the waistline area. 

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Here is a close-up of the fabulous hat and intricate detailing of the jacket.  Jewelry from Ashton Drake.  OOAK cigarette holder.

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The best part of this "Fresh Take" black suit is the woven ribbon detailing. So 1940's!  As you can see, I replaced the original white blouse trimmed with pom-poms with a more tailored version in green.  I love this shade of green with red. I also eliminated the cuffs and added the oversized corsage.  The shoes are borrowed from Silo 30's Zita and the muff from Dark Desire.  This suit did not fit as well as "Captivatingly Coy".  I pinned both the jacket and skirt in the back for a closer fit.

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I wish the hat looked more like Tonner's prototype pic.  But I think this works with my restyled Ashton Drake Gene's new hairdo.  The feather detailing on the hat is wonderful.

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"Venus Rising" is a fabulous charmeuse gown with chiffon ruffles at the hemline.  The chiffon arm drapes really make this gown a stand-out.  The wonderful color looks perfect on this redhead diva, Metropolitan Madra from Metrodolls.  I also love the grey t-strap shoes with rhinestones.  Why is it the best shoes are hidden under gowns? 

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Here is a shot of the gown without the arm drapes.  I just love those hemline ruffles!  The neckline is a tad low on Madra, but she can certainly pull it off! 

Gene & Company (and I) will be looking forward to future collections by Anne Harper, studio designer.

The New Look

The New Look was primarily the creation of one man, Christian Dior.  After the fabric restrictions of World War 2, The New Look utilized luxurious fabrics and lavish designs.  Skirts became full, sweeping to almost ankle length (11 inches from the ground).  Each panel of a New Look skirt was individually lined with an extra ruffle at the waist to make pleats or gathers jut out sharply over the hips.  Jackets were figure hugging with decollete necklines, long narrow sleeves, and often accented with pockets, tucks, and button details.  To achieve the ultra narrow waistline, Dior devised a special built-in "waspie" corset. 

The New Look suits and dresses were accompanied by the most glamorous hats.  From dramatic, wide brimmed black hats to the delightful head-hugging hats that were artfully decorated with elaborate embroidery and trimmings.

For his first major collection in the Spring of 1947, Dior created his now iconic "Bar Suit".

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The "Bar Suit" was comprised of a silk shantung fitted jacket with sloped shoulders, cinched waist, and padded hips.  The black pleated wool skirt was full and longer in length.  Accessories often included a wide brimmed hat, umbrella, pumps, and short leather gloves.  Photo courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Collection.

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In 1996, Mattel produced the 50th Anniversary Christian Dior Barbie Doll.  This wonderful miniature replica of the famous "Bar Suit" is worn by "The Interview" BFM Silkstone Barbie doll.  Leopard muff borrowed from another Mattel ensemble.

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In 1999, Ashton Drake produced "Love, Paris" Gene Marshall, a dressed doll designed by Jose Ferrand.  It consisted of a grey fitted jacket over a full circle skirt with the new longer length, supported by an underskirt of ruffled black organza that provides fullness and lift.  It is worn by Integrity's Silhouette of the 1950's Ivy Jordan.

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Original accessories consisted of a pink wide brimmed hat and matching purse.  For this photo shoot, I used the hat from Ashton Drake's "Lucky Stripe", black beaded gloves from AD's "Embassy Luncheon", umbrella from Fashion Boulevard, and pumps from Joe Tai.

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