September Seasonal Accessorizing

Transform a jacket by adding braid or cording trim.  Depending on how it is used, the effect can either be subtle or dramatic.

Ivy Jordan

Even a small touch such as black cording shaped into a cluster of medallions to form a pocket motif adds distinction to a tailored jacket.  Suit ensemble is from The Couture Touch.  Gloves are from Integrity.  Handbag from Randall Craig.  "V for Tea" Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

During WWII unrationed braid was available in a variety of colors and unique designs.  In addition, furniture departments carried fringed sofa edgings that could be creatively utilized as trim for clothing.  Here are two examples from the September 1941 issue of British Vogue magazine.

Madra Lord

Black loop braiding adds panache to Integrity's remodeled suit [Sparkling Sepia].  Following the seam line, the braiding was hand tacked to the jacket and the ends were tucked under the hem.  Hat and gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Scarf is from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from an unknown designer.  Spotted in Manhattan Madra Lord is from Jamieshow.

This Harzfeld's department store fashion ad from the September 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar features a Nettie Rosenstein beige and black wool suit trimmed with black passementerie.

Madra Lord

From the archives, the white crepe jacket [Par Excellence] from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection is embellished with black trim giving it that distinctive forties look.  Scarf and matching gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Hat and skirt are from Sandra Stillwell.  Booties and doggies are from Ashton Drake.  Deep Rose Madra Lord is from Integrity.

Must Haves for Updating a 1940's Wardrobe

Photo from the cover of British Vogue, September 1941.

The use of florals and bows in women's apparel were popular fashion trends during the 1940s.  Both were the perfect choice for giving new life to old clothes as well as uplifting morale during the war years.  From the pages of vintage Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, here are ideas for embellishing with flowers and bows.

Not your traditional way to wear flowers, but delightful indeed.  A small bouquet tucked into a belt at the waist.  Rembrandt dress ad from British Vogue, 1941.

And don't forget hats.  A bunch of violets with the stems still attached are perched on top a flaring, blue, silk satin snood from Lilly Dache.  The flowers are repeated in the corsage on the jacket.  Photo from Vogue, 1941.

Three suits accented with bow trim from Charles Armour, Inc., New York City.  Eve Tartar hats.  From Vogue, 1943.

Four small strategically placed bows accented with jeweled clips add interest to this suit-dress from the Doctor Dress Company, Inc.  Photo from Harper's Bazaar, 1942.

A black, silk crepe dress from Traina-Norell is accented with a marvelous brooch mounted on ribbon bows.  Bonwit Teller ad from Harper's Bazaar, 1942.

The same brooch appears in this color photo by Rawlings for Vogue, 1942.  Tailored ensemble from Traina-Norell.

Love this idea for a bow accented necklace.  La Tausca Pearls, New York.  Hat by Lilly Dache.  Photo from Vogue, 1942.

A cherry red wool suit-dress from Jacqmar features a turned back lapel to reveal an oversized velveteen bow.  Illustration from British Vogue, 1941. 

Nettie Rosenstein Peplum Dresses, 1942

Photo from Harper's Bazaar, September 1942

Two dresses that look like suits.  These Nettie Rosenstein dresses with peplum effect were designed exclusively for I. Magnin and were available in black, brown, or red.

Knox Suit Hats, 1942

Knox Hat advertisement from Harper's Bazaar, September 1942

High, Wide & Handsome Hats, 1942

Advertisement from Harper's Bazaar, September 1942

Exclusive collection of Autumn hats for the French Shop at Carson Pirie Scott & Co., Chicago.

Autumn Forecast: Hats

Photo by Horst for Harper's Bazaar, October 1942

Two Hat Originals: made-to-order (your exact measurements, your own pick of colors) hats available exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman.  Lower left - "Sunny Day" black felt bowler-style with a fringed bow of mauve-pink grosgrain and a flirt of grass-green feather.  Upper right - "Crest of the Evening" black evening head-dress of three plumes above a dramatic background veil.

Photo by Horst for Vogue, August 1, 1938

Suzy black felt "D'Artagnan" mammoth tricorn folded obliquely, trimmed with brandenburg braid.  Jewels by Boucheron.

Photo by Horst for Vogue, August 1, 1938

Round Hats, Square Shoulders:  Hat from Marjorie Dunton.  Heim's Persian lamb coat.

Fashion Completers

What are Fashion Completers?  They're those fabulous accessories that complete an ensemble.  From hats to shoes, to everything in-between, Fashion Completers give the wearer's outfit a polished, distinctive, and finished look.

Illustration by Rene Bouet-Willaumez (RBW) for
Vogue, September 15, 1941

What better to accessorize black than with bold color.  Hat from Lilly Dache.  And the ultimate accessory?  A luxurious Stein and Blaine natural stone-marten stole.

Photos by Haus Jorgensen for Harper's Bazaar, October 1942

Chinese red accessories all dyed from one lot of leather in the same vat, and then sent their separate ways to meet again on one happy person.  A totally new concept in matching accessories.  Pictured top to bottom:  Doeskin turban by DePinna, Doeskin sandals by I. Miller, Doeskin gloves by Aris, and Doeskin bag from Pichel.

Illustration by RR Bouche for Vogue, September 15, 1941

Monotone in Wild Plum.  Black plum (yummy) from top to toe for a smart, monochromatic look. On the left - wool jacket and dress from Fox-Brownie, velour hat from Garfunkel.  Right - wool jacket and skirt by Frank Gallant, felt hat by Stylepark.

Photo by Horst for Vogue, September 15, 1941

Beautifully simple yet elegant black wool suit accented with fabulous gilt serpents for clasps. Completing it - a hat of black wool jersey and wool mesh, and a black fox bag.  Accessories and the original design suit from Marshall Field.

Evening Dresses, Mid-1940's

Nothing to wear to your next Holiday party?  Here are four elegant evening dresses from the mid-1940's to inspire you.

An elegant gown by Emmett Joyce, circa 1947.  Photo by Joffe for Vogue Studio.

Sophie Original dress with fabulous matching gloves.  The pure silk fabric is a Contemporary Artist Print from Onondaga Silk Company.  Circa 1947.  Sophie Original was designed by Sophie Gimbel.  She was a Sak's in-house ready-to-wear designer from 1931 - 1969.  She specialized in formal clothing for day and evening.

Another Sophie Original in yarn-dyed surah silk.  Note the matching gloves again.  Photo by Rawlings for Harper's Bazaar, 1946.

A Vogue Design for Dressmaking pattern # 6012 shown in a gorgeous silk nylon net.  Jewelry from the Petit Musee.  Photo by Horst for Vogue, 1947. 

1950's Mannequin

Dovima

Fashion magazines in the 1950's were looking for a sophisticated, aloof look that Dovima perfected.  She was the Supermodel of the 50's before the phrase "Supermodel" was even coined. 



Richard Avedon photo of Dovima for Harper's Bazaar


A recent post on The Studio Commissary about restyling Triumph Gene Marshall's hairstyle had me taking another look at this gorgeous doll from Integrity Toys.  I love her make-up and those fabulous eyebrows, so reminiscent of Dovima's 1950's signature look, but wasn't warming up to the original hairstyle. 

So here is Triumph Gene's new look modeling D.A.E. Original's Simply Boulevard dress.  The OOAK hat and belt are from The Couture Touch, jewelry from PD Root, shoes from Joe Tai, umbrella from Fashion Boulevard, and the muff from Ashton Drake's Dark Desire.  Table from CED.

Here's a closer look at that stunning face!  After releasing the original braids, I brushed her hair off her face and up in a slightly asymmetrical ponytail, then trimmed off the hair close to the rubber band.  Now she will be able to wear a variety of fabulous hats.  And who knows....now that Gene is retired from films, she may just become the next Supermodel.

Dovima paper doll by artist Gregg Nystom

Doesn't this illustration of Dovima bear a striking resemblance to Triumph Gene?  Click here to see more famous models from paper doll artist Gregg Nystrom.  He turns movie stars into paper dolls too.  Gregg Nystom's Paper Doll Website

House of Milgrim

American designer, Sally Milgrim was a dressmaker to several Presidential wives including Mrs. Roosevelt, Mrs. Hoover, and Mrs. Coolidge.  She was also the head designer for the House of Milgrim for more than twenty years.  She designed wearable costumes for American women including suits, hats, gloves, and shoes. In addition to their retail stores, they also had a wholesale division selling original Milgrim fashions and hats to other stores.

What fascinated me about Milgrim was that she made up her first original ideas in doll dresses.  Customers saw them and custom ordered the fashions for themselves.  She was expert at making clothing to flatter any figure type.  The following photos of Milgrim ads were found in various issues of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.  Although Sally Milgrim designed a wide range of fashions including evening wear and accessories, I've focused this post on highlighting her suits, hats, and a daywear dress from the 1940's. 

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Here is a full page ad for Milgrim fashions and hats found in the October 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar.  The top left hat is described as a light blue velour, spiked with blue and black coq feathers.  The fabulous black felt fez hat in the middle of the page is accented with braided soutache that forms graceful silk tassels to the shoulder. Both hats shown were available in other colors.  The top right ensemble is described as a Milgrim Original, color against black.  The bodice is accented with black jet cabochons.  The rayon crepe dress was available in black combined with Midas gold, emerald green, turquoise, or red.  Retail price was $49.95.  The dress on the lower left features soft folds and a belt studded with jewels.  This Milgrim Original was available in green, red, brown, and black rayon crepe.  It retailed for $49.95.

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This smart Milgrim tailored felt hat called "Alert" was available in several colors.  The price was $15.  Ad from the September 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar.

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I love the color blocking details on this classic mid 40's Salymil Junior suit by Milgrim.  Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1945.

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Beautiful sleeve shaping highlight this mid 40's Milgrim Original suit made from Forstman Doeskin.  The fur ascot and muff are delightful additions to the clean lines of this ensemble.  Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1946.

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A fabulous late 40's Milgrim Original dress with an asymmetrical peplum and button detailing made from Forstman Sandretta.  Photo from Vogue, 1949.

Biography resource from "Color & Design in Apparel" by Bernice Chambers.  Published 1945.

"Diamonds and White Mink"

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Here is something to warm you on a cold Winter night. Dana Parfum ad from the October 1946 issue of Harper's Bazaar.  Harry Winston jewels.  Photo by Rawlings.