From Sketch to Costume

The costume designer often begins with a sketch of an idea.  "To sketch an idea is the surest way to capture it, the clearest way to explain it. "  Patricia L. Rowe

Irene's sketch of the suit worn by Joan Crawford in "They All Kissed the Bride"
(Columbia, 1942).

Irene Lentz-Gibbons, known simply as Irene, developed a style of boldly signed fashion sketches that became her trademark.  She was a successful designer of not only costumes for film but of the personal wardrobes of Hollywood's most noted stars.

Joan Crawford in the suit by Irene.

Sketches were also commonly utilized within the pages of fashion magazines such as Vogue.

This 1943 illustration from Vogue London highlights fashion collections designed under wartime regulations.  On the left, a tailored suit in oatmeal tweed by Bery.  On the right, a grey tweed coat from Brenner Sports.

Credits:

In a Glamorous Fashion, The Fabulous Years of Hollywood Costume Design by W. Robert Lavine. 

Shorthand Fashion Sketching by Patricia L Rowe.  Fairchild Publications, New York.

Fashion Illustrated, A Review of Women's Dress 1920 - 1950 by Deborah Torrens.

Inspired by a French Fashion Plate

An Easy DIY Hat for Gene Marshall & Friends

Film diva Madra Lord updates the tweed jacket from Gene Marshall's Fit For A Queen travel ensemble with a stylish red felt topper accented with bow and feather detailing recycled from another hat.  Inspired by a French fashion illustration, this easy to make hat will be the perfect addition to your favorite diva's fall wardrobe.  Jacket and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Muff from Integrity.  Brooch is from Mattel.  Hat, scarf, and earrings are from The Couture Touch.

Idées (Manteaux et Tailleurs), Winter 1940.

To make this hat, here's what you will need:

Wool felt.
Hand sewing needle.
Thread to match felt.
Scissors.
Dressmaker chalk.
A glass or other round object for tracing a circle.
Emery board.
A bow.  [Pre-made bows are available at fabric or craft stores.  The recycled bows used for Miss Lord's hats measure 2" across.  If desired, you can use smaller ones as pictured in the original fashion illustration shown above.]

To begin, trace a 2-1/2" diameter circle on to wool felt and cut out.  Soften the cut edge by lightly sanding with the fine side of an emery board.  Form 2 tucks as shown in the photo below.

Secure the tucks with tiny hand stitches.  Attach a bow either with a needle and thread or with fabric glue.  The bow will hide any stitches that may show.  The hat is secured to the hair with a straight pin.

Miss Lord wears a mustard felt variation trimmed with a delightfully dotted sheer bow.  Jacket and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Brooch from Mattel.  Cigarette holder from Mystyna.  Hat, scarf, fur muff, and earrings are from The Couture Touch.

Credits:

Siren in the Night Madra Lord, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Fashion illustration from 1940's Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook by Charlotte Fiell and Emmanuelle Dirix.  Published by Goodman Book Co., UK.

Inspiration

Vintage sewing patterns are a wonderful source of inspiration for costume designers and wardrobe stylists.  The pattern illustrations are an invaluable resource for period detail including combining colors and accessorizing.

Two fashionable styles from Simplicity, circa 1941.  A simply chic dress with a two-piece look and a stylish peplum suit.

4 fabulous looks from 1940's McCall Patterns.  Clockwise from left:  A suit with a fly-front jacket, a contrast Redingote, a unique cape style, and a classic collarless jacket.  [Love that hat!]

A smart grey suit from McCalls, circa 1952.  Note the use of brown and pale yellow in the accessories that gives this suit a look of elegance and refinement.

A classic 1950's three-piece swing style ensemble from McCalls.  Love the tweed with contrast lapel and cuffs.

The Originator, 1946

The Originator was a unique sketchbook of modern fashion trends and ideas. The monthly publication featured authentic designer sketches to illustrate style variations and creative applications for smart designs. Whether a new pocket, a beautiful neckline, or a basic silhouette, the Originator's unique feature was to show its ultimate use in various garments such as blouses, dresses, suits, and coats. During the 1940's and 50's, The Originator Publishing Company also sold an expensive, highly stylized line of sewing patterns similar to Modes Royale.

For your viewing enjoyment, the following scans are from the 1946 Summer and Fall issue.

Credits:
The Originator Publishing Company, New York, NY.
Blueprints of Fashion, Home Sewing Patterns of the 1950's by Wade Laboissonniere.

A Modern Take on Vintage

Gene Marshall, the iconic star of Monolithic Studios, wears a modern gown that gives a nod to the Art Deco style of the 1930's and early 1940's. Many of the glamorous gowns of this period made use of color-blocking and geometric shapes.

1930's illustration courtesy uglycutedesigns.blogspot.com
 

The color combination of mustard yellow and black was frequently seen during the Art Deco period, not only in fashion but home decor as well.

Tall, faceted, black & yellow Palda vase
 courtesy artdecocollection.com

Mustard yellow crepe gown with black accents
courtesy 1937 Dry Goods

Mustard yellow and black satin gown with color-blocked detail was borrowed from Main Feature Elsa Lin by Integrity. Black suede gauntlet gloves are from The Couture Touch, earrings and black/gold beaded bracelet are from Ashton Drake, cuff bracelet is from Integrity.  Priceless Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

Cold Shoulder

Miss Marshall is stunning in the sage green, asymmetric gown designed originally for Madra Lord by Jose Ferrand, circa 1942. The Grecian-styled design was inspired by the illustrations of Salvador Dali, Christian Berard, and Marcel Vertes in the 1930's and 40's. OOAK cigarette holder is from Mystyna. Encore Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

Salvador Dali illustration for Vogue, 1930's
 

Christian Berard illustration
Marcel Rochas design, c 1930's
 

Marcel Vertes illustration for Henri Bendel, 1936

Fashion Inspiration, 1948

Illustration by Eric for Coty's Emeraude fragrance from Vogue, November 1, 1948.

The Classic Tailored Suit - 1940 Edition

Photo courtesy parisiangentleman.co.uk

It's a fashion staple for all seasons, all locales, all climates.  The tailored skirt suit featuring a longer-length jacket, extended shoulders, and an emphatically nipped-in waistline.  Details for the 1940 edition of this classic suit include a notched collar, hip pockets in a wide variety of styles, and button fastenings.

 Tailored Suit Pattern from McCalls
Photo courtesy malepatternboldness

Miss Madra Lord is ready to transition into Fall with an OOAK tailored suit, suede gauntlet gloves, black felt tilt hat, and a luxurious mink muff....all from The Couture Touch.  Worn with a black blouse from Bogue's Vogues accented at the neckline with bow trim from Violet Water's "My Sunday Chapeau" hat. Pin from Robert Tonner, earrings from Ashton Drake, and cigarette holder from Mystyna. Pool Pose Madra Lord is from Integrity.

 Robert Piguet suit design, circa 1940
Sketch from the archives of Andre Studios

Robert Piguet suit design, circa 1940
Sketch from the archive of Andre Studios

1940 suit design from the archives of Andre Studios

Gene Marshall wears a film noir variation of the same classic, tailored jacket worn by Miss Lord. Here paired with a blouse from Bogue's Vogues, fur drape from PD Root, bracelet from Facets by Marcia, and cigarette holder from Mystyna.  Jacket, necklace, earrings, and molded felt turban are from The Couture Touch. Star Entrance Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

American Ladies Tailor, Fall/Winter 1947-48

American Ladies Tailor and Les Parisiennes was a catalog of made-to-order suit and coat designs published 9 times a year by American-Mitchell Fashion Publishers Inc., New York. The following scans are from the September 1947 issue.  Enjoy the fashion show.....

Cocktail suit with broadtail-trimmed collar and draped peg pockets.

Two smart suits with fabulous pocket detailing.  Love the striped hat and matching jabot accessorizing the suit on the left.

On the left: Nutria-trimmed suit with peplum pockets.  Right: Spectator suit with fur-trimmed bertha collar and triple-tiered pockets.

Smartly styled checked suit with shirtwaist collar and extra roomy pockets.

On the left: Single-breasted suit with double-flap pockets, and button detailing that continues right into the slim skirt.  Right: The long silhouette is emphasized in the soft and supple lines of this smartly tailored suit.

Two fabulous Persian-trimmed suits.

Vintage-Inspired Contest Entry

In the early 80's I had the opportunity to enter a design contest (for humans, not dolls).  The grand prize winner would have their design manufactured and sold in retail stores across the country.  Although I didn't win, I enjoyed the process and still do today.  Only now for dolls, not humans. LOL! Recently I ran across some photographs of my entry and thought I would share.

The stone green gabardine 2-piece suit with contrasting red Ultrasuede accents certainly had a 40's vibe. The illustrations were done by a professional artist.

Unusual Hats

Rounding out this month of fabulous hats are some rather unusual ones from the late thirties and mid-forties.

The Zipper Hat from Agnes, circa 1937

Hat from Madame le Monnier
Illustration by Pierre Mourgue, 1937
Courtesy hprints.com

Schiaparelli hats, circa late 1930's

Perhaps none more unusual than Schiaparelli's iconic shoe hat featured in her Fall/Winter 1937-38 Collection.

Hat from Hattie Carnegie, 1944
Photo courtesy fredandgingervintage.blogspot.com

High tricorn hat from Laddie Northridge
Circa 1945
Photo courtesy liliesandremains.blogspot.com