More Scene Stealing Fashion for Fall, 1940s

Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall's Town and Country suit becomes a show stopper with the addition of a fabulous suede tilt topper accented with vintage feather detailing. There were many hat styles during the 1940's, but none more sophisticated than the tilt topper. The traditional topper was a stiff silk hat worn by men for formal day and evening occasions. Milliners took the distinctive style and fashioned it for women in various fabrications and trims.

Photo by Richard Avedon for Vogue, 1946.

A Regency Dandy Suit, designed by Morris Kraus for the Suit Salon at Bonwit Teller in New York, is topped with a marvelous tilt hat with a unique crown shape. A simple, narrow hat band and veiling complete this smart style.

Gene Marshall

The same topper gives chic distinction to the dress from It's A Cinch. Additional accessories include gloves from D.A.E. Originals, bracelet from Ashton Drake, handbag from PD Root, and belt from The Couture Touch.

For more on tilt hats, you may also enjoy the following posts from the archives:
Tilt Hats, Part 1
Tilt Hats, Part 2

A 1940's Tilt Topper labeled NY Creations.
From the author's personal collection.

Credits:

Shanghai Siren Gene Marshall, enhanced with an articulated body from Integrity, is from Ashton Drake.

"Town and Country" suit ensemble and "It's A Cinch" fashion are from Integrity. Additional accessories for Miss Marshall's updated "Town and Country" look include leather gloves and scarf from The Couture Touch.  Handbag is from Ashton Drake.

Miss Marshall's OOAK tilt topper is from The Couture Touch.

1950's Mannequin

Dovima

Fashion magazines in the 1950's were looking for a sophisticated, aloof look that Dovima perfected.  She was the Supermodel of the 50's before the phrase "Supermodel" was even coined. 



Richard Avedon photo of Dovima for Harper's Bazaar


A recent post on The Studio Commissary about restyling Triumph Gene Marshall's hairstyle had me taking another look at this gorgeous doll from Integrity Toys.  I love her make-up and those fabulous eyebrows, so reminiscent of Dovima's 1950's signature look, but wasn't warming up to the original hairstyle. 

So here is Triumph Gene's new look modeling D.A.E. Original's Simply Boulevard dress.  The OOAK hat and belt are from The Couture Touch, jewelry from PD Root, shoes from Joe Tai, umbrella from Fashion Boulevard, and the muff from Ashton Drake's Dark Desire.  Table from CED.

Here's a closer look at that stunning face!  After releasing the original braids, I brushed her hair off her face and up in a slightly asymmetrical ponytail, then trimmed off the hair close to the rubber band.  Now she will be able to wear a variety of fabulous hats.  And who knows....now that Gene is retired from films, she may just become the next Supermodel.

Dovima paper doll by artist Gregg Nystom

Doesn't this illustration of Dovima bear a striking resemblance to Triumph Gene?  Click here to see more famous models from paper doll artist Gregg Nystrom.  He turns movie stars into paper dolls too.  Gregg Nystom's Paper Doll Website

House of Milgrim

American designer, Sally Milgrim was a dressmaker to several Presidential wives including Mrs. Roosevelt, Mrs. Hoover, and Mrs. Coolidge.  She was also the head designer for the House of Milgrim for more than twenty years.  She designed wearable costumes for American women including suits, hats, gloves, and shoes. In addition to their retail stores, they also had a wholesale division selling original Milgrim fashions and hats to other stores.

What fascinated me about Milgrim was that she made up her first original ideas in doll dresses.  Customers saw them and custom ordered the fashions for themselves.  She was expert at making clothing to flatter any figure type.  The following photos of Milgrim ads were found in various issues of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.  Although Sally Milgrim designed a wide range of fashions including evening wear and accessories, I've focused this post on highlighting her suits, hats, and a daywear dress from the 1940's. 

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Here is a full page ad for Milgrim fashions and hats found in the October 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar.  The top left hat is described as a light blue velour, spiked with blue and black coq feathers.  The fabulous black felt fez hat in the middle of the page is accented with braided soutache that forms graceful silk tassels to the shoulder. Both hats shown were available in other colors.  The top right ensemble is described as a Milgrim Original, color against black.  The bodice is accented with black jet cabochons.  The rayon crepe dress was available in black combined with Midas gold, emerald green, turquoise, or red.  Retail price was $49.95.  The dress on the lower left features soft folds and a belt studded with jewels.  This Milgrim Original was available in green, red, brown, and black rayon crepe.  It retailed for $49.95.

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This smart Milgrim tailored felt hat called "Alert" was available in several colors.  The price was $15.  Ad from the September 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar.

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I love the color blocking details on this classic mid 40's Salymil Junior suit by Milgrim.  Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1945.

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Beautiful sleeve shaping highlight this mid 40's Milgrim Original suit made from Forstman Doeskin.  The fur ascot and muff are delightful additions to the clean lines of this ensemble.  Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1946.

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A fabulous late 40's Milgrim Original dress with an asymmetrical peplum and button detailing made from Forstman Sandretta.  Photo from Vogue, 1949.

Biography resource from "Color & Design in Apparel" by Bernice Chambers.  Published 1945.