A Season for Travel

"Portraits of Fashion" by Flexees Foundations. Vogue, November 15, 1940.

A classic tailored ensemble will carry you to your destination in style.  It is a fashion for all locales, all climates, all seasons.

Miss Gene Marshall

Chic Gene Marshall is all set to go places in a smartly tailored suit ensemble.  Jacket, gloves, and brooch are from Ashton Drake.  Scarf from Mattel.  Hat, skirt, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Cocoa Rose Gene Marshall appears courtesy of Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

Photo Credit:  Collection Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.

A chic woolen suit by Jacques Fath perfect for everyday wear around town.  The double-breasted jacket style with vertical pocket detailing was a favorite of Fath's until 1945.  Photographed in Paris, circa 1942.

Resources:

Vogue, November 15, 1940.

Fashion, The 20th Century by Francois Baudot.

December Seasonal Accessorizing

For a dramatic effect, layer a rich wool boucle plastron over a basic dress.  Add a matching hat, gloves, and handbag.

Miss Gene Marshall

Costume Credits:  Dress, handbag, and necklace are from Ashton Drake.  Plastron, hat, beaded gauntlet gloves, belt, and earrings are from The Couture Touch.  Caribbean Kiss Gene Marshall [re-coiffed] appears courtesy of Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

I hope you enjoyed this series inspired by the make do and mend era of the 1940s.  With interchangeable accessories, you can always be fashionably dressed with a minimum of time and expense.

Bibliography:

The Complete Book of Sewing by Constance Talbot, published 1943.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Honey....We're going to be late for Thanksgiving dinner at Grandma's house!

Wishing You a Safe Holiday Filled with Family, Food, and Friends.

Photo Credit:  Vintage Buick ad from Vogue, November 15, 1940.

Catalog Divas

Just in time for the holiday shopping season, Hollywood divas Joan Crawford and Madra Lord appear in an upscale mail order catalog modeling the latest in fall fashion.

Glamorous Furs!

Miss Joan Crawford

Costume Credits:  Fur cape, gloves, and earrings are from Ashton Drake.  Dress from Fashion Blvd.  Handbag from PD Root.  Hat, belt, brooch, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Awards Night Joan Crawford is a Robert Tonner Exclusive for Sandra Stillwell's 2009 Hollywood Ahoy! Event.

You Need A Hat That's Tailored!

Miss Madra Lord

Costume Credits:  Hat and shoulder cape are from The Couture Touch.  Top is from Ashton Drake.  Spotted in Manhattan Madra Lord is from Jamieshow.

"Say, did you hear.  Two Hollywood divas are featured in our fall/winter issue.  Do you think we can get their autographs?"  

Photo Credit: Chicago Mail Order Company, Fall/Winter 1941-42.

Add Flair To Fall Separates

Pair a basic skirt with a knit top.  Add a hint of sparkle and a touch of fur for a lush fall look.

Gene Marshall

A beaded applique for sparkle and recycled fur from another outfit updates Miss Marshall's top.  A dramatic tilt topper with coordinating suede gauntlet gloves completes this stylish ensemble.

Costume Credits:  Top and earrings are from Ashton Drake.  A "Nouveau Nouveau" Hat by Sharon has been embellished with feather and floral trim.  Handbag from an unknown designer.  Skirt, gloves, and styling are from The Couture Touch.

Symphony in G Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

The Ladies of Noir

It's the perfect time of the year to celebrate our favorite femme fatales of film noir from Monolithic Studios.

Miss Violet Waters

Costume Credits:  Dress, fur, and jewels are from Ashton Drake. Hat is from Integrity. Cigarette holder from Mystyna.
Heat Wave Violet Waters [re-coiffed] is from Integrity.

Miss Madra Lord

Costume Credits:  Dress and gloves are from Sandra Stillwell. Hat, handbag, and jewels are from Ashton Drake.
Spotted in Manhattan Madra Lord is from Jamieshow.

Miss Gene Marshall

Costume Credits:  Suit and handbag are from Robert Tonner. Hat, blouse, gloves, and bracelet are from Ashton Drake. Belt and earrings are from The Couture Touch.
Spring in Central Park Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Unexpected Assistants

It just takes a small amount of color to assist in brightening neutral tones as well as black.  The addition of these bright assistants provides unexpected touches that lift the mood and spirit of the woman who wears it.

Bold red enlivens a striped tailored suit worn by film star Gene Marshall.  Suit, hat, scarf, and jewels are from The Couture Touch.  Handbag from Ashton Drake.  Gloves are from Sandra Stillwell.  Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

In the October 15, 1941 issue of Vogue magazine, these uplifting pops of color were referred to as "Bright Assistants".

For late afternoon, a pink sweater with matching gloves uplifts a black suit.  The simple addition of a pink bow on a fur muff along with a black hat accented with pink floral trim can have the same uplifting effect.  Green gloves matched to shoe laces and jewels are another bright idea.  Illustration is by Rene Bouet-Willaumez (RBW) for Vogue.

Passionate purple provides an inspiring pop of color for director Ivy Jordan's tailored ensemble.  Jerkin, skirt, hat, and gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Shirt is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Cigarette holder is from Mystyna.  Lady Director Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

Next Time:

Learn how to make Miss Marshall's Fashionably Forties Felt Tilt Topper.  After all, you just can't have too many hats!

Fabric of the Season: Herringbone Tweed

The herringbone pattern is a distinctive V-shaped design typically found woven in wool fabric.  It is distinguished from a plain chevron by the break at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zig-zag or the bones of a fish such as a herring.  Herringbone wool tweeds were often used for tailored suits and outerwear during the 1940's.

Film star Gene Marshall wears a bold black and white wool herringbone tweed jacket that will stand up to the first chill winds of fall.  Jacket, hat, and brooch are from The Couture Touch.  Skirt is from Sandra Stillwell.  Scarf and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from Madame Alexander.  Re-designed earrings from Facets by Marcia.  Miss Marshall appears courtesy of Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

From the Chicago Mail Order Company Fall-Winter 1941-42, a wool herringbone tweed coat in versatile black and white.

"Hollywood Director"

This 1946 fashion ad for a Rosenblum tailored suit pays homage to lady directors in this illustration titled "Hollywood Director" by artist Ben Stahl.

Wearing a casually chic ensemble, Monolithic Studios' actress turned director Miss Ivy Jordan is hard at work on the set of her new film.  Jerkin, belt, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Shirt is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Skirt is from Sandra Stillwell.  Gloves from Ashton Drake.  Cigarette holder is from Mystyna.

Credits:

Harper's Bazaar, October 1946.

Lady Director Ivy Jordan appears courtesy Monolithic Studios and Integrity.

What Are You Doing This Evening?

If you're dining in a restaurant where there is dancing, wear a dress with a full skirt for ease of movement.  Cocktail ensemble embellished with "fur" cuffs, and jewels are from Ashton Drake.  Cigarette holder from Mystyna.  Shadow Song Gene Marshall is from Integrity.  Hair styled by The Couture Touch.

For little dinners at home, wear something easy and effortlessly elegant such as this ruffled skirt from Integrity paired with a knit turtleneck bodysuit from Robert Tonner.  Cuff bracelet is from Integrity.  Cigarette holder from The Couture Touch.  Necklace unknown.  Twilight Rumba Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

For opening night at the ballet or the theater, choose a stylish satin suit such as this one from Integrity accessorized with a feathered hat and matching gloves from D.A.E. Originals, and sumptuous fur from PD Root.  Necklace and earrings are from Madame Alexander.  Heat Wave Violet Waters is from Integrity.  Hair styled by The Couture Touch.

If you're going nightclubbing, look for an outfit guaranteed to turn heads such as this sequin embellished top from D.A.E. Originals paired with a satin skirt with a dramatic velvet flounce from Ashton Drake.  Fur cape is from Dimitha.  Jewels and shoes are from Integrity.  Gloves from PD Root.  Hat and cigarette holder are from The Couture Touch.  Sunset Serenade Violet Waters is from Integrity.

If attending a ball, go for all-out glamour with a black velvet gown, "diamond" jewelry, and a luscious fur stole.  Evening ensemble is from Ashton Drake.  Shoes from Integrity.  Queen of Hearts Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Credits:

Harper's Bazaar, October 1946.

Styling from The Couture Touch.

A Shorts Story

Designed by Vince Nowell for Ashton Drake's 2000 Gene Marshall Collection, this stylish short set is perfect for relaxing on a hot summer day.  Miss Marshall's personal stylist added the scarf from "A Woman For All Seasons" set and the cork-soled wedges from "It Happened in Monterey";  all from Ashton Drake.

The stunning Love at First Sight Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.  The pearl and "diamond" pin is from Mattel.

On Memorial Day.....

Monolithic Studios' film star Miss Gene Marshall

Let this be a day to remember our heroes who served to protect our country and our freedom.

A Simply Chic Corded Hat for Fashion Dolls

An Easy DIY Project

Actress/Director Ivy Jordan wears a stylish tilted hat of her own creation.  This versatile hat features a corded base that can be trimmed in a variety of ways.

Here's what you will need to make this smart hat:

• Lightweight cardboard.  
• 1/8" wide Butcher's String.  You could also use yarn.
• Circle template.  
• Pencil.
• Scissors.
• Glue.  I used Elmer's Multi-Purpose Glue for this project.  
• Fabric for lining (Optional).
• Assorted trims.

Fig.1

Step 1:  Trace a circle onto cardboard and cut out.  A 2-1/2" diameter circle was used for Ivy's hat.  However you can make it any size you wish.  Cut a slit to the center of the circle as shown in Fig. 1 above.  Overlap 1/4" and glue in place.  Let it dry thoroughly.

Fig. 2

Step 2:  Apply a thin coat of glue to the top of the cardboard hat base.  I used a small paintbrush to apply the glue working a small section at a time.  Wind the string slowly into a spiral shape tucking the end under as shown on the right in Fig. 2 above.  Tip:  I found it easier to begin winding the string a couple rounds in my hand first, then center it on the base as shown above and continue winding until the base is covered.  To finish, glue the end underneath the base as shown on the left in Fig 2.  Let your hat dry thoroughly.

Fig.3

Step 3:  To line your hat, cut the same size circle out of cotton fabric and glue to the underside, darting it to fit as shown above in Fig 3.  I used Beacon's Fabri-Tac adhesive to attach the lining.  You are now ready to trim your hat as desired.

This stylish hat is also suitable for 1:6 scale size dolls such as Barbie.  A 2" diameter circle was used to make Barbie's chic tilt.  Jacket and scarf were borrowed from Buenos Aires Victoire Roux.  Gloves from Mattel.  Skirt and fur are from The Couture Touch.  Lingerie Silkstone Barbie is from Mattel.

Additional Credits:

Pearls and Pink Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.  Her "Smart Set" ensemble [Ashton Drake] is borrowed from her dear friend Miss Gene Marshall.

May Seasonal Accessorizing

Add a fresh touch of white to a conservative costume with a jabot.  The traditional jabot is fashioned from white lace and either gathered or pleated into straight ruffles.  However, as you will see, a jabot does not have to be made of lace to give the same effect.

Madra Lord accents her tailored two piece ensemble with the lace jabot borrowed from Gene Marshall's Little Black Dress costume.  It has been updated with a new black bow and tiny black beads.  Top and jabot are from Ashton Drake.  Hat, gauntlet gloves, skirt, and belt are from The Couture Touch.  Handbag is from Randall Craig.  Pool Pose Madra Lord is from Integrity.

A unique pearl encrusted "jabot" dresses up Gene Marshall's Little Black Dress.  The "jabot" is actually a beaded applique with tiny magnets attached to the back.  A festive belt, white gloves, pearl jewelry, and detachable lace cuffs complete the look.  Dress, cuffs, and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Handbag is from Robert Tonner.  Styling from The Couture Touch.  Creme de Cassis Gene Marshall (restyled) is from Ashton Drake.

And from the archives:

The original lace jabot from Miss Marshall's Little Black Dress is paired with the dress from Madra Lord's Dark Desire.  Both from Ashton Drake.  Wool herringbone jerkin and coordinating gauntlet gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Shoes and belt are from Integrity.  Hat is from Robert Tonner.  J'Adore Gene Marshall, wearing a restyled wig cap from Phoenix Gene Marshall, is from Jamieshow.

Dangerous Curves

Miss Gene Marshall

What every 1940's femme fatale needs in her wardrobe is a little black dress with fabulous black and white striped sleeves.  An optional purchase outfit from the 2007 Gene Marshall Rare Deal convention, Dangerous Curves is a surprisingly versatile fashion.  With just a simple change in accessories, this stylish dress can go from a film noir look to chic sophistication.

Ivy Jordan

Miss Jordan shows a delightfully flirty side of Dangerous Curves punctuated with pops of color.  Accessories include the belt from Embassy Luncheon [Ashton Drake] and lace gauntlet gloves [Integrity].  Hat, cigarette holder, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Color Deal Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.  

Gene Marshall

From the Monolithic Studios' costume vault, a still from a 1940's film noir starring Gene Marshall.  For her femme fatale look, the dress is accessorized with sumptuous fur and a pearl brooch [both from Integrity].  Shoes and handbag are from Robert Tonner.  Tilt topper, gauntlet gloves, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Spring in Central Park, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.


Header Photo Credits:  A Lady Knows Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.  Her original bangs have been removed.  Dress and fur from Integrity.  Hat from Greene & Lam.  Jewels, gloves, cigarette holder, and styling are from The Couture Touch.

A Bright Forecast

The Fashion News for 1941:  Bright, stimulating colors to lift the spirit.  

You can easily boost the morale of a plain dress by simply introducing accessories in vivid colors.

Monolithic Studios' film star Gene Marshall revitalizes a basic black dress with bold color accents.  The multi-colored, wool boucle, belted plastron accented with a silk bow at the neckline is paired with a dramatic suede topper, color-blocked purse, and embroidered suede gauntlet gloves.  All from The Couture Touch.  Dress is from Ashton Drake.  Custom cigarette holder is from Mystyna.  "Symphony in G" Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

From the 1941 issue of British Vogue, this Wolsey fashion ad highlights the bold color trend for apparel as well as accessories.

Miss Marshall makes a bold fashion statement with a royal blue jersey turban and matching suede gauntlet gloves.  Her own Little Black Dress is punctuated with felt confetti dots.  The 1/4" and 1/8" circles were cut from wool felt scraps using a classic 1-hole punch available in a variety of sizes.  The circles were then just finger pressed to the bodice in a random fashion.  Dress, necklace, and purse are from Ashton Drake.  Hat, gloves, and belt are from The Couture Touch.  Scottie is from PD Root.  Love, Paris Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

Happy Birthday Miss M!

Gene Marshall

On her way to meet friends for her birthday celebration, Miss Marshall graciously poses for a photo wearing a chic 1940's ensemble.  The top from D.A.E. Originals' Starmaker costume is paired with a wine velveteen skirt.  Additional accessories include a luscious fur drape and gloves from furrier to the stars PD Root.  Shoes are from Integrity.  Handbag from Ashton Drake.  Hat and styling are from The Couture Touch.

Have a Wonderful Time 

and a 

Very Happy Birthday Miss M!

A Parade of Spring Hats

Monolithic Studios' iconic film star Gene Marshall selects a few of her favorite hats from the  costume archives.  Enjoy!

Jacket/dress from Ashton Drake. Handbag from Robert Tonner. Hat, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch. Blue Fox Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

Jacket/dress from Ashton Drake. Hat and styling are from The Couture Touch. J'Adore Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.  

Suit ensemble from Ashton Drake. Phoenix Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.

Suit from Integrity. Hat from Buenos Aires Victoire Roux [Integrity]. J'Adore Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.

Suit and muff from Sandra Stillwell. Gloves and styling are from The Couture Touch. Restyled hat is from Ashton Drake's Song of Spain. Symphony in G Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

March Seasonal Accessorizing

Begin to add a touch of spring with detachable collars and cuffs in bright colors and patterns as well as in white.

Playful dots on a bright green background gives film star Madra Lord's basic black dress a chic way to transition to spring.  Dress [Dark Desire] and belt [Embassy Luncheon] are from Ashton Drake.  Gloves from Sandra Stillwell.  Hat, earrings, and detachable collar and cuffs are from The Couture Touch.

Featured in the February/March 1940 issue of Vogue Pattern Book, a detachable bib-style double collar trimmed with ruffles in fresh white.  Matching narrow cuffs and a delightful white floral accented hat complete the look.

Miss Lord shows her softer side in an alternative variation:

A subtle play of patterns highlight this stylish bib-style collar and matching cuffs.  Dress [Dark Desire], belt [Embassy Luncheon], handbag [Star Wardrobe Collection], and restyled hat [Doing Her Part] are all from Ashton Drake.  Gloves from Sandra Stillwell.  Detachable collar and cuffs are from The Couture Touch.

A yoke-style collar with matching cuffs in a spring floral pattern gives Gene Marshall's "Little Black Dress" a fresh, updated look.  Dress and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Restyled hat is from Sandra Stillwell.  Purse from Madame Alexander.  Detachable collar and cuffs are from The Couture Touch.


Careless Kisses Madra Lord is from Integrity.

Cocoa Rose Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.