Season's Greetings!

Miss Gene Marshall

Best Wishes for the Holidays and Happiness Throughout the New Year!

A Season for Travel

"Portraits of Fashion" by Flexees Foundations. Vogue, November 15, 1940.

A classic tailored ensemble will carry you to your destination in style.  It is a fashion for all locales, all climates, all seasons.

Miss Gene Marshall

Chic Gene Marshall is all set to go places in a smartly tailored suit ensemble.  Jacket, gloves, and brooch are from Ashton Drake.  Scarf from Mattel.  Hat, skirt, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Cocoa Rose Gene Marshall appears courtesy of Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

Photo Credit:  Collection Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.

A chic woolen suit by Jacques Fath perfect for everyday wear around town.  The double-breasted jacket style with vertical pocket detailing was a favorite of Fath's until 1945.  Photographed in Paris, circa 1942.

Resources:

Vogue, November 15, 1940.

Fashion, The 20th Century by Francois Baudot.

December Seasonal Accessorizing

For a dramatic effect, layer a rich wool boucle plastron over a basic dress.  Add a matching hat, gloves, and handbag.

Miss Gene Marshall

Costume Credits:  Dress, handbag, and necklace are from Ashton Drake.  Plastron, hat, beaded gauntlet gloves, belt, and earrings are from The Couture Touch.  Caribbean Kiss Gene Marshall [re-coiffed] appears courtesy of Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

I hope you enjoyed this series inspired by the make do and mend era of the 1940s.  With interchangeable accessories, you can always be fashionably dressed with a minimum of time and expense.

Bibliography:

The Complete Book of Sewing by Constance Talbot, published 1943.

Catalog Divas

Just in time for the holiday shopping season, Hollywood divas Joan Crawford and Madra Lord appear in an upscale mail order catalog modeling the latest in fall fashion.

Glamorous Furs!

Miss Joan Crawford

Costume Credits:  Fur cape, gloves, and earrings are from Ashton Drake.  Dress from Fashion Blvd.  Handbag from PD Root.  Hat, belt, brooch, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Awards Night Joan Crawford is a Robert Tonner Exclusive for Sandra Stillwell's 2009 Hollywood Ahoy! Event.

You Need A Hat That's Tailored!

Miss Madra Lord

Costume Credits:  Hat and shoulder cape are from The Couture Touch.  Top is from Ashton Drake.  Spotted in Manhattan Madra Lord is from Jamieshow.

"Say, did you hear.  Two Hollywood divas are featured in our fall/winter issue.  Do you think we can get their autographs?"  

Photo Credit: Chicago Mail Order Company, Fall/Winter 1941-42.

November Seasonal Accessorizing

Add a sequin collar to a basic dress.  A detachable collar is a great way to transition a daytime dress for dinner, cocktails, or the theater.

Monolithic Studios' director Miss Ivy Jordan in the knit dress from "Warmest Wishes", an FAO Schwarz 1998 Fall Exclusive designed by Tim Kennedy.  A detachable sequin collar replaces the original cowl neck scarf transforming this dress from daywear to evening sophistication.  Dress and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Hat, fur muff, and waist corsage are from The Couture Touch.  The sequin collar was recycled from another doll.  Lady Director Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

A pearl encrusted green velvet tie-on collar from Hattie Carnegie is the perfect addition for a late-day dress.  Photo is from the October 1, 1943 issue of Vogue magazine highlighting new ways to wear new accessories.

Fashionably Forties Felt Tilt Topper

A DIY Project for Gene Marshall & Friends

Gene Marshall

You can easily make stylish hats for your favorite fashion doll diva by using simple objects as a hat block.  Miss Marshall's smartly tailored felt topper uses the bottom of a travel size bottle to form the crown.  

The first thing you'll need is an appropriate bottle for your hat.  You might just find the perfect one in your kitchen or bathroom.  If not, check out the beauty and skincare aisle at your local drugstore.  Make sure the bottle is long enough to allow for the felt to stretch down, and that it is the same size or smaller than your doll's head.  The bottle used for this project measures 4" in circumference and is 3-1/4" long.

Additional Supplies Needed:

• Wool Felt, I used a 9" x 11" piece
• Foil
• Saran Wrap
• A thick rubber band
• A glass or other round object for tracing a circle
• Dressmaker chalk or other marking tool
• Emery board
• Sewing needle and matching thread
• Scissors
• Ruler or tape measure
• Lightweight Buckram, available at most fabric stores or millinery supply shops
• Assorted trims

To begin, prepare your "hat block" by first covering the bottom of the bottle with foil.  Cover the foil with saran wrap as shown above.

Thoroughly wet felt under the faucet with hot water, stretching the felt in all directions.  This will loosen the fibers and make it easier to stretch and smooth.  Blot excess moisture with a paper towel.  Center the felt over the bottle, smooth down sides, and secure with a rubber band.  Position the rubber band approximately 1/2" or more below the position of your cutting line to ensure a smooth finish.  Begin pulling and stretching the excess felt below the rubber band until it is smooth and wrinkle-free above the rubber band.  Take your time.  Once you are satisfied with the results, let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Once the felt has completely dried, measure the desired height of the crown and mark for cutting before removing it from the "hat block" as shown above.  Tip:  If the bottom of your bottle is slightly rounded, place a small flat ruler or other small flat object on top of the crown and measure down with a tape measure and mark the location with chalk.  This will help you keep an even line around the circumference of the crown.  You are now ready to carefully remove the felt from the "hat block" and cut following your marked cutting line.

To keep the cut edge of the crown from stretching, cut a 1/4" wide strip of buckram the length of the circumference of your "hat block" plus approximately 1/2" or slightly more to allow for overlapping.  Stitch to secure as shown above, then slide off the "hat block".

Insert the buckram inside the crown positioning it so that it is even with the cut edge.  Stitch close to the edge as shown above.  Your trim will hide your stitches.  I found this technique makes it easier to attach the crown to the brim.

For the brim, cut a circle of felt in the desired size.  For Miss Marshall's hat, a 2 1/2" diameter circle was used.  Soften the cut edge by lightly sanding the edge with the fine side of an emery board.  Center the crown over the brim and whip stitch the bottom of the crown to the brim with matching thread as shown above.  To indent the top of the crown, I used the round portion of a wooden chess piece available at most craft stores.  You are now ready to trim your hat as desired.  The hat is secured to the hair with a straight pin.  Because wool felt retains its shape, you can easily adjust the brim to the desired look.

Resources:

Wool felt is available from Edinburgh Imports.com.  They offer an excellent weight felt for doll hats and it comes in a wide assortment of yummy colors.  The felt can be purchased by the yard or by the piece.  The piece size is 9 x 11 inches.  Wool felt may also be available at some fabric and craft stores such as JoAnn Fabrics.  Be sure to purchase wool felt, not synthetic craft felt.

Gene Marshall

Costume Credits:  Tweed jacket from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Skirt from Sandra Stillwell.  Handbag from Madame Alexander.  Hat, gloves, scarf, jewels, and styling are from The Couture Touch. 
White Orchid Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.

Costume Credits for the first photo:  Jacket and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  "Fur" muff is from Integrity.  Brooch from Robert Tonner.  Bracelet from Facets by Marcia.  Scarf from an unknown designer.  Hat, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.
Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

Unexpected Assistants

It just takes a small amount of color to assist in brightening neutral tones as well as black.  The addition of these bright assistants provides unexpected touches that lift the mood and spirit of the woman who wears it.

Bold red enlivens a striped tailored suit worn by film star Gene Marshall.  Suit, hat, scarf, and jewels are from The Couture Touch.  Handbag from Ashton Drake.  Gloves are from Sandra Stillwell.  Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

In the October 15, 1941 issue of Vogue magazine, these uplifting pops of color were referred to as "Bright Assistants".

For late afternoon, a pink sweater with matching gloves uplifts a black suit.  The simple addition of a pink bow on a fur muff along with a black hat accented with pink floral trim can have the same uplifting effect.  Green gloves matched to shoe laces and jewels are another bright idea.  Illustration is by Rene Bouet-Willaumez (RBW) for Vogue.

Passionate purple provides an inspiring pop of color for director Ivy Jordan's tailored ensemble.  Jerkin, skirt, hat, and gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Shirt is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Cigarette holder is from Mystyna.  Lady Director Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

Next Time:

Learn how to make Miss Marshall's Fashionably Forties Felt Tilt Topper.  After all, you just can't have too many hats!

1940's Autumn Dash

Monolithic Studios' film stars Gene Marshall and Madra Lord usher in autumn wearing suit ensembles with the look of dash.

Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall pairs a classic, 1940's edition tailored jacket with a pleated skirt.  Sumptuous fur from PD Root, a chic suede handbag from an unknown designer, and a dramatic topper complete the stylish look.  Suit, hat, scarf, gloves, and jewels are from The Couture Touch.  Blue Fox Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

Madra Lord

Miss Lord proves you can still look chic in a simple suit design that spells wartime economy.  Suit, hat, and scarf are from The Couture Touch.  Gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Earrings from D.A.E. Originals.  Cigarette holder from Mystyna.  Top This Madra Lord, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

October Seasonal Accessorizing

Rejuvenate a solid-colored suit, dress, or coat with the addition of plaid accessories.

A marvelous plaid hat along with a matching wing-collared dickey adds panache to Gene Marshall's suit ensemble.  The jacket is a restyled coat dress from D.A.E. Originals' Tour d'Argent.  Skirt, gloves, and cigarette holder are from Ashton Drake.  Hat, dickey, belt, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Blue Belle Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

A hat, a dickey, a pair of gloves, a belt, or just a handbag.  You don't need a large area of plaid to enliven a basic suit or dress.

A fabulous plaid handbag is all that is needed to complement this Couturier suit from Vogue Patterns, circa 1943.

One Tweed Suit, Two Inspired Looks

Two famous stars from Monolithic Studios choose their favorite look for a classic navy tweed suit.  The quickest way to change the look of an outfit is with accessories.  Let's see what our stars have chosen.

Actress Gene Marshall goes for drama with bold red accessories.  Hat, scarf, and belt are from The Couture Touch.  Brooch is from Mattel.  Gloves are from Ashton Drake.

Jazz singer Violet Waters chooses a stylishly sophisticated look.  Hat, crochet lapel ornament, handbag, and earrings are from The Couture Touch.  Red knit top and gloves are from Ashton Drake's "Good-Bye New York" suit ensemble.  Luscious fur from PD Root replaces the original cape.

Credits:

Ashton Drake's Limited Edition "Travel in Tweed" suit ensemble was designed by Lynne Day for the 2004 Gene Marshall Collection.

Fashion Plot Gene Marshall and Mood Indigo Violet Waters appear courtesy Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

Styling from The Couture Touch.

Fabric of the Season: Herringbone Tweed

The herringbone pattern is a distinctive V-shaped design typically found woven in wool fabric.  It is distinguished from a plain chevron by the break at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zig-zag or the bones of a fish such as a herring.  Herringbone wool tweeds were often used for tailored suits and outerwear during the 1940's.

Film star Gene Marshall wears a bold black and white wool herringbone tweed jacket that will stand up to the first chill winds of fall.  Jacket, hat, and brooch are from The Couture Touch.  Skirt is from Sandra Stillwell.  Scarf and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from Madame Alexander.  Re-designed earrings from Facets by Marcia.  Miss Marshall appears courtesy of Monolithic Studios and Ashton Drake.

From the Chicago Mail Order Company Fall-Winter 1941-42, a wool herringbone tweed coat in versatile black and white.

What Are You Doing This Evening?

If you're dining in a restaurant where there is dancing, wear a dress with a full skirt for ease of movement.  Cocktail ensemble embellished with "fur" cuffs, and jewels are from Ashton Drake.  Cigarette holder from Mystyna.  Shadow Song Gene Marshall is from Integrity.  Hair styled by The Couture Touch.

For little dinners at home, wear something easy and effortlessly elegant such as this ruffled skirt from Integrity paired with a knit turtleneck bodysuit from Robert Tonner.  Cuff bracelet is from Integrity.  Cigarette holder from The Couture Touch.  Necklace unknown.  Twilight Rumba Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

For opening night at the ballet or the theater, choose a stylish satin suit such as this one from Integrity accessorized with a feathered hat and matching gloves from D.A.E. Originals, and sumptuous fur from PD Root.  Necklace and earrings are from Madame Alexander.  Heat Wave Violet Waters is from Integrity.  Hair styled by The Couture Touch.

If you're going nightclubbing, look for an outfit guaranteed to turn heads such as this sequin embellished top from D.A.E. Originals paired with a satin skirt with a dramatic velvet flounce from Ashton Drake.  Fur cape is from Dimitha.  Jewels and shoes are from Integrity.  Gloves from PD Root.  Hat and cigarette holder are from The Couture Touch.  Sunset Serenade Violet Waters is from Integrity.

If attending a ball, go for all-out glamour with a black velvet gown, "diamond" jewelry, and a luscious fur stole.  Evening ensemble is from Ashton Drake.  Shoes from Integrity.  Queen of Hearts Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Credits:

Harper's Bazaar, October 1946.

Styling from The Couture Touch.

One Sheath Dress...Three Quick Changes

Transform a simple dress with a dash of bold color...a froth of tulle...the luxury of mink.

A classic, black silk sheath from Bogue's Vogues provides the perfect backdrop for accessory changes.  Famous film star Miss Gene Marshall generously agrees to model three different looks for us.

Costume Credits:  Detachable mink cuffs are from The Couture Touch.  The hat from Ashton Drake's Star Wardrobe Collection begs for embellishment i.e., the floral trim.  Necklace is from PD Root.  Cigarette holder from Mystyna.  Gloves are from Sandra Stillwell.  The belt from Ashton Drake's Little Black Dress is positioned backwards.  The "buckle" is a brooch from Robert Tonner's Tiny Kitty Collection.

Costume Credits:  Jacket is from Integrity's It's A Wrap costume.  The floral corsage was recycled from Ashton Drake's White Hyacinth.  Hat is from The Couture Touch.  Gloves from Sandra Stillwell.  Cigarette holder is from Ashton Drake.  An Integrity cuff bracelet has been enhanced with jewels.

Costume Credits:  The tulle overskirt is from El Morocco, and the floral hat is from First Stop Chicago; both Ashton Drake.  Gloves are from PD Root.  Handbag is from The Couture Touch.  Jewels are from D.A.E. Originals.

"That's a wrap Miss Marshall.  Thank you!"

White Orchid Gene Marshall appears courtesy Monolithic Studios and Jamieshow.

Photo shoot styled by The Couture Touch.

August Seasonal Accessorizing

Pair a dark dress with a hat and matching bag in rich, saturated hues such as jewel-tone colors.

Monolithic Studios' film star Gene Marshall pairs a burgundy suede pillbox and matching handbag with a black silk cocktail dress from Bogue's Vogues.  Fur shoulder drape is from PD Root.  Gloves from Ashton Drake.  Jewels from an unknown designer.  Cigarette holder is from Mystyna.  Hat, handbag, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  White Orchid Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.

Turquoise provides a pop of color for Miss Marshall's chic black satin dress from Integrity.  Gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Hat, handbag, belt, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

A Classic Wardrobe Staple

The tailored suit featuring a longer length, fitted jacket with masculine shoulders, cuff-less sleeves, and pocket detailing.  Neutral colors are sound choices for maximum versatility.

Monolithic Studios' film star Gene Marshall wears a tailored jacket with the matching slim, straight skirt.  A tilt topper, color-blocked gauntlet gloves, a bold black and white dotted scarf, and jeweled lapel ornament gives this costume a smartly sophisticated look.  OOAK ensemble is from The Couture Touch.

In a dashing manner, Miss Marshall pairs the jacket with a black, A-line skirt.  Dramatic accessories complete this chic ensemble.  Suit, hat, gloves, scarf, and jewels are from The Couture Touch.  Fur and matching fur-trimmed handbag are from PD Root.  Cigarette holder is from Ashton Drake.

Director Ivy Jordan borrows the jacket from Miss Marshall and teams it with a pleated skirt [Doing Her Part], blouse [Star Wardrobe Collection], and jewels; all from Ashton Drake.  Gloves are from Sandra Stillwell.  Jacket, hat, and fur muff are from The Couture Touch.


Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall and Pearls and Pink Ivy Jordan appear courtesy Monolithic Studios and Integrity.

July Seasonal Accessorizing

Anne Adams #4881 Pattern

Doll up a basic dress by adding flowers at the neckline and for extra flattery repeat the flowers on your hat.

Ivy Jordan

Embroidered flower motifs, recycled from vintage veiling, were applied in an asymmetric fashion on the bodice of Miss Jordan's two-piece navy dress as well as on the hat trim.  Dress [Ladies Who Launch] is from Integrity.  Handbag is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Earrings from Mattel.  Cigarette holder from Ashton Drake.  Hat, gloves, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Pearls and Pink Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

Peplum Panache

Miss Gene Marshall

The dress from Madame Alexander's "Grand Hotel" is transformed with a detachable peplum in a charming summer print.  In addition, the original black bow trim was replaced with the matching dramatic bow recycled from Integrity's "Ladies Who Launch".  Gloves and jewels are from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from PD Root.  Detachable peplum, hat, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  To Have and To Hold (restyled) Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Set of tie-on peplums in 3 styles from Butterick, circa 1947.

Peplums were a popular fashion trend in the 1940's.  Throughout the decade the home-sewing industry offered detachable peplum patterns as a way to utilize small fabric yardages as well as increase the versatility of a basic dress or skirt.

Butterick dress pattern with a detachable tie-on peplum option, circa 1947.

Credits:

Vintage pattern illustrations from CoPA Commercial Pattern Archive.  Joy Emery, Project Director.

Man-Tailored Glam

Select a tailored jacket that takes its cue from menswear.....Add stylish accessories......The result is effortless forties sophistication.

Monolithic Studios' film star Gene Marshall wears the ultimate man-tailored jacket borrowed from Mattel's James Bond.  Hat, handbag, and earrings are from Ashton Drake.  Gloves and brooch are from Integrity.  Scarf is from Sandra Stillwell.  Skirt from The Couture Touch.  Phoenix Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.

Film diva Joan Crawford in a double-breasted pinstriped suit from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Hat and gloves are from The Couture Touch.  The dramatic fur is from PD Root.  Top from Sandra Stillwell.  Shoes from Integrity.  Cigarette holder is from Ashton Drake.  Miss Crawford is a repainted "Pin-Up" Gene Marshall from Ashton Drake, artist unknown.

Miss Marshall strikes a pose in the jacket from Ashton Drake's Star Wardrobe Collection.  Vintage buttons replace the original ones.  Hat, gloves, scarf, and corsage are from The Couture Touch.  Cigarette holder is from Mystyna.  Skirt from Sandra Stillwell.  Handbag unknown.  White Orchid Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.

Additional Credits:

Styling from The Couture Touch.