The Personal Style of Gene Marshall & Madra Lord

In the Golden Age of Hollywood, a star dressed like a star on and off the screen.  The two famous stars of Monolithic Studios are no exception.  Here we focus on two early styles from Gene Marshall's and Madra Lord's personal wardrobe:  Ashton Drake's  "Coffee Klatch" and "The Perfect Gift"  suit ensembles.

"Coffee Klatch"

The always glamorous Madra Lord makes her grand entrance at the exclusive club, Silver Samovar, just off Hollywood Boulevard, for her weekly coffee klatch.  The circa 1943 navy and butter crepe suit ensemble was designed by Dolly Cipolla.  The handbag, gloves, and shoes are original to the outfit.  The jewelry is from PD Root, and the marvelous hat is borrowed from Madame Alexander's "Aunt Amanda Fairchild" costume.  I replaced the original belt with navy Ultrasuede, and added 4 goldtone "buttons" to the jacket. Modeled by Integrity's "Flame" Madra Lord from the Stepping High Collection.

"The Perfect Gift"

Gene Marshall looking smart in a hunter green shantung suit on a recent trip to New York City to spend a day with a dear, childhood friend.  This circa 1947 suit was designed by Regina Ganem, Young Designer of America.  Those fabulous oxford shoes are from Integrity.  I added a scarf made from a vintage blouse to fill in the neckline.  I also made a matching Ultrasuede tilt topper to replace the original floral bandeau hat.  The hat is trimmed with some of the flowers and veiling from the original hat, and the corsage was filled in a bit.  Modeled by Ashton Drake's "Filigree" Gene Marshall enhanced with an Integrity articulated body.

Additional Credits:
CED Table
Table fan from Ashton Drake's "A Hot Day in Hollywood" Accessory Set
Leopard "statue" is a trinket collectible found at Hobby Lobby
Backdrop from RaiHing

"Bond Street" Beauty

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During World War II, fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar were filled with patriotic advertisements.  This Yardley ad for their "Bond Street" perfume and beauty preparations is a great example.  Don't you just love that hat!

Lights on for Laughter - Lights on...soon...for reunions and romance!  Lights on for you....lovely as your dreams deserve....with "Bond Street" beauty preparations by Yardley to give you a head-start on the heavenly days ahead!   New world....new woman....with "Bond Street" perfume and beauty preparations by Yardley.

Cabana Girls

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Actress Paulette Goddard wears a "dinner-in-cabana" costume designed by Hattie Carnegie perfect for those warm Florida nights.  Made of silk crepe and sequined embroidered.  A real shell clip with diamonds by Fulco Verdura accent the scarf.  Photo by Horst for Vogue, 1941. 

I was inspired to do my own photo shoot with another great actress, Miss Gene Marshall, wearing a similar costume from Ashton Drake.

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Love at First Sight Gene Marshall wears Shorts Story designed by Vince Nowell.  Her head scarf is from A Woman for All Seasons accented with a pearl and "diamond" pin from Mattel.   I substituted the original shoes for the wedge sandals from It Happened in Monterey.  Doll and fashions are from Ashton Drake. Table and statuette from Liz Cole/Retros.

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I was lucky to find a "pin" that perfectly accents the floral print on Gene's delightful costume.

Blossoming Hats

Turban by Madame Pauline

Vogue declared for Spring 1941:  Be prepared to wear floral hats this season.  They're fresh, optimistic, and men adore them.  These delightful toppers are perfect with furs, tweeds, tailored daywear, and dinner suits. And as a final tip, spritz perfume on those blossoms, just to make believe they live.

So enjoy the 1941 flower show...

A dramatic cluster of pansies adorn this blue silk satin and purple felt turban by Lilly Dache.

Three huge garnet roses top this purple silk jersey turban by Madame Pauline. The flower-toned gloves provide the perfect accent.

A bunch of violets on a flaring snood of blue silk satin by Lilly Dache.  Again note the matching gloves.

Brown violets on a yellow straw hat with lots of veiling by Walter Florell.

Credits: Vogue, January 15, 1941

             Photos by Rawlings

Dobbs Hats for Spring 1940

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Dobbs is a name synonymous with impeccable quality and classic styling.  They are legendary for their straw and felt hats for both men and women.  This illustration from the January 1940 issue of Vogue shows two Dobbs hats for Spring 1940.  A grey felt banded with red grosgrain on the left, and a cocoanut straw imported from Nassau on the right.  Illustration by Rene Bouet-Willaumez (1900-1979). 

Vintage Fashion Resource

In order to support their dealers, home sewing pattern companies published monthly booklets that highlighted their latest styles.  These wonderfully illustrated booklets were a free promotional give-away tool for retailers. They provide a glimpse of 20th Century fashions that were available at the time to the home sewer.  You can still find these booklets at flea markets, antique malls, and online.  Because they were printed on newsprint, they are often in delicate condition but are still an excellent resource for costume designers and collectors of vintage fashion.  The following scans of vintage sewing pattern booklets are from my personal collection. As always, click on the photos to enlarge.

McCall Style News

"Insist on a McCall Pattern - It's the short cut to Paris style."  Perfectly illustrating that point are 2 fabulous Fall suit ensembles from 1936 and 1938 respectively.

Prevue Simplicity Fashions

Both of these booklets are from December 1940 and 1941 respectively.  I love their use of vivid color and dramatic accessorizing.

Vogue Patterns

Published by Conde Nast, October 1939 for Marshall Field & Company in Oak Park, Illinois.  My favorite place to shop for the most fabulous fabrics was at Marshall Fields in Chicago.

New York Gold Seal Patterns

Young, flirty Spring styles from New York Patterns, March 1940 and February 1942 respectively.  New York Pattern Company was short-lived, approximately circa 1930 - early 1950's.

Inspirations: Gene Artists

In 1995, Ashton Drake Galleries launched Mel Odom's new fashion doll, Gene Marshall.  I hesitated at first because of her larger size as I only collected Barbie dolls at the time.  But her Vargas-like features and fabulous vintage-inspired wardrobe hooked me. It wasn't long until I discovered some wonderful doll artists that were creating original, one-of-a-kind or limited edition fashions for Gene. In addition to designing for the Barbie doll, many of these artists began adding Gene to their repertoire.  The following are a few of my favorites from my personal collection.  As always, be sure to click each photo to enlarge.  Enjoy the fashion show.

This striking dress is called "Simply Boulevard" by D.A.E. Originals.  I don't know why I missed a lot of their earlier Gene fashions, but was lucky enough to snag this one from a fellow collector.  The hat is from Bogue's Vogues.  The jewelry, gloves, purse, and shoes are from Ashton Drake.  My muse is Ashton Drake's "Love Paris" Gene Marshall.  Click here for D.A.E. Orginal's website

A classic 1950's black silk cocktail sheath and matching hat by Bogue's Vogues.  Jewelry and gloves from Ashton Drake. Shoes by Joe Tai.  Modeled by Integrity's Zita Charles.  Click here for Bogue's Vogues Etsy shop

Another fabulous ensemble by Bogue's Vogues called "1953".  The jacket features Bogue's signature waist detailing.  The earrings, necklace, and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  The handbag and bracelet are from Integrity. Ashton Drake's "Best Bet" Gene Marshall with an Integrity articulated body and Monique wig is the model/muse.  (The original hat to this suit is shown in the first photo accessorizing the dress by D.A.E. Originals.)   Table by Liz Cole for Retros.  Click here for Retros' Etsy shop

I met PD Root at a local doll show a few years back and loved his tailored daywear looks for Gene.  And every girl has to have one of his genuine fur drapes.  This circa 1940's 2-piece ensemble is accented with one of those to die for furs.  My restyled Simply Gene by Ashton Drake is the lucky model.  PD Root's eBay User ID is nunner502000.

"Fond Farewell" was designed exclusively for the 2000 Gene Convention by Mark Middendorf.  This was from a centerpiece doll, limited edition of 55.  "Fond Farewell"  is a circa 1940's grey wool suit with matching fur wrap and black leather structured handbag.  I replaced the original hat with one of my own designs to better fit with my restyled "Ooh La La" Gene from Integrity.  Shoes are from Jennifer Sue.  Click here for Mark Middendorf's website

To end the fashion show, a spectacular evening ensemble by Michael Scott.  I love the alligator print fabric and the design of the jewelry.  The purse is ingeniously attached to the gloves. A perfect look for the sultry Violet Waters by Ashton Drake.  Click here for Michael Scott's website

An American Original, Spring 1941

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An American Original designed by Nettie Rosenstein, Spring 1941.  This dramatic ensemble is made of Crown tested Rayon fabric. Rosenstein was an acclaimed fashion designer based in New York between 1913 - 1975.  She was particularly renowned for her "little black dresses" as well as her printed dresses with matching gloves.  She designed a wide range of fashions and accessories including suits, evening wear, and striking costume jewelry.

This wonderful illustration is by Carl Erickson for the American Viscose Corp.  Erickson, who simply signed his illustrations with "Eric", became a staff illustrator for Vogue magazine in 1923.

1940's Style Barbie

I guess by now it's no surprise that I love the glamorous fashions of the 1940's.  In addition to the wonderful suits, daywear dresses, and tailored eveningwear, women were elegantly accessorized from head to toe with hats, gloves, furs, and fabulous jewels.  I would love to see Mattel do a 1940's series for the Silkstone BFMC that also included period hairstyles.  A few years back they did do "Great Fashions of the 20th Century", the "Hollywood Movie Star Collection", and Christian Dior's 50th Anniversary Barbie doll that featured his iconic "Bar Suit" from his New Look collection.  In the meantime, here is a look at some original fashions inspired by the Fabulous 1940's!

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This fabulous mid-forties era OOAK doll is from the design team of Hunter-Goldblatt.  They specialized in vintage-inspired designs of the 20th Century.

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In the early 60's, my Grandmother made this classic sheath for my Barbie doll.  I gave it a glamorous 1940's look with the addition of a cocktail hat and a fur draped over the shoulder.  The hat is from Ashton Drake's Gene Marshall collection.  My lovely model is Betty Draper from Mattel's Madmen Silkstone series.

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Tweed Indeed Silkstone Barbie from the BFMC gets a new hairdo to go with her circa 1947 OOAK cocktail ensemble from The Couture Touch. 

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Delphine Silkstone Barbie from the BFMC models a circa 1948 OOAK daywear ensemble from The Couture Touch.

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One of the jewels in my OOAK collection is this superb Vivette prototype fashion from D.A.E. Originals called "Autumn Stroll", circa late 1940's.  My model is an early Silkstone Lingerie Barbie doll.

Fanciful Feathers

Feathers have long been used as decorations for women's hats up until the latter years of World War II when they became difficult to obtain.  After the war cock, pigeon, and glycerinized ostrich feathers were again revived.

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Not only did they utilize feathers, but sometimes the entire bird!  The latter half of the 1930's showed a variety of hat styles like this unusual white feathered bird hat.  Photo from a Vogue 1936 Elizabeth Arden make-up ad. 

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Vogue says:  "You'll be preening your plumage, this autumn - what with feathers on practically every other hat."  That was the caption for this wonderful illustration by Eric from Vogue, 1938.  The black felt tricorn hat is from Louise Bourbon.

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Here is a sensational Vogue cover from 1939.  The fur and feathered tilt hat is by John Frederics.  Photo by Horst.

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This show-stopping, mustard colored felt hat with fabulous ostrich feathers dates from the late thirties, early forties. Maker unknown.   From my private collection. 

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Olive green feathers completely cover this fantastic hat.  Note the two delightful birds in the front.  Labeled: Northridge, New York. Circa 1940's.  From my private collection.

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Turquoise feathers overlay this smart black felt tilt hat. Circa 1940's  Maker unknown.  From my private collection.

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Michelle Tibbetts designed this marvelous, miniature, feathered, cocktail hat for Jose Ferrand's "Cognac Evening" ensemble.  Circa 1951.  From the Gene Marshall Collection by Ashton Drake.  OOAK necklace and fur from PD Root.  My model/muse is Gil-ty Girl Gene Marshall from Integrity.

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Here is a feathered hat I designed for Ashton Drake's "Fit For a Queen" suit ensemble.  Fur from Affordable Designs.  My model/muse is Integrity's Blush Gene Marshall.  Hair by Jim Gaddis.

House of Milgrim

American designer, Sally Milgrim was a dressmaker to several Presidential wives including Mrs. Roosevelt, Mrs. Hoover, and Mrs. Coolidge.  She was also the head designer for the House of Milgrim for more than twenty years.  She designed wearable costumes for American women including suits, hats, gloves, and shoes. In addition to their retail stores, they also had a wholesale division selling original Milgrim fashions and hats to other stores.

What fascinated me about Milgrim was that she made up her first original ideas in doll dresses.  Customers saw them and custom ordered the fashions for themselves.  She was expert at making clothing to flatter any figure type.  The following photos of Milgrim ads were found in various issues of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.  Although Sally Milgrim designed a wide range of fashions including evening wear and accessories, I've focused this post on highlighting her suits, hats, and a daywear dress from the 1940's. 

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Here is a full page ad for Milgrim fashions and hats found in the October 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar.  The top left hat is described as a light blue velour, spiked with blue and black coq feathers.  The fabulous black felt fez hat in the middle of the page is accented with braided soutache that forms graceful silk tassels to the shoulder. Both hats shown were available in other colors.  The top right ensemble is described as a Milgrim Original, color against black.  The bodice is accented with black jet cabochons.  The rayon crepe dress was available in black combined with Midas gold, emerald green, turquoise, or red.  Retail price was $49.95.  The dress on the lower left features soft folds and a belt studded with jewels.  This Milgrim Original was available in green, red, brown, and black rayon crepe.  It retailed for $49.95.

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This smart Milgrim tailored felt hat called "Alert" was available in several colors.  The price was $15.  Ad from the September 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar.

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I love the color blocking details on this classic mid 40's Salymil Junior suit by Milgrim.  Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1945.

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Beautiful sleeve shaping highlight this mid 40's Milgrim Original suit made from Forstman Doeskin.  The fur ascot and muff are delightful additions to the clean lines of this ensemble.  Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1946.

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A fabulous late 40's Milgrim Original dress with an asymmetrical peplum and button detailing made from Forstman Sandretta.  Photo from Vogue, 1949.

Biography resource from "Color & Design in Apparel" by Bernice Chambers.  Published 1945.