October Seasonal Accessorizing

Rejuvenate a solid-colored suit, dress, or coat with the addition of plaid accessories.

A marvelous plaid hat along with a matching wing-collared dickey adds panache to Gene Marshall's suit ensemble.  The jacket is a restyled coat dress from D.A.E. Originals' Tour d'Argent.  Skirt, gloves, and cigarette holder are from Ashton Drake.  Hat, dickey, belt, earrings, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Blue Belle Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

A hat, a dickey, a pair of gloves, a belt, or just a handbag.  You don't need a large area of plaid to enliven a basic suit or dress.

A fabulous plaid handbag is all that is needed to complement this Couturier suit from Vogue Patterns, circa 1943.

July Seasonal Accessorizing

Anne Adams #4881 Pattern

Doll up a basic dress by adding flowers at the neckline and for extra flattery repeat the flowers on your hat.

Ivy Jordan

Embroidered flower motifs, recycled from vintage veiling, were applied in an asymmetric fashion on the bodice of Miss Jordan's two-piece navy dress as well as on the hat trim.  Dress [Ladies Who Launch] is from Integrity.  Handbag is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Earrings from Mattel.  Cigarette holder from Ashton Drake.  Hat, gloves, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Pearls and Pink Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

Peplum Panache

Miss Gene Marshall

The dress from Madame Alexander's "Grand Hotel" is transformed with a detachable peplum in a charming summer print.  In addition, the original black bow trim was replaced with the matching dramatic bow recycled from Integrity's "Ladies Who Launch".  Gloves and jewels are from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from PD Root.  Detachable peplum, hat, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  To Have and To Hold (restyled) Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Set of tie-on peplums in 3 styles from Butterick, circa 1947.

Peplums were a popular fashion trend in the 1940's.  Throughout the decade the home-sewing industry offered detachable peplum patterns as a way to utilize small fabric yardages as well as increase the versatility of a basic dress or skirt.

Butterick dress pattern with a detachable tie-on peplum option, circa 1947.

Credits:

Vintage pattern illustrations from CoPA Commercial Pattern Archive.  Joy Emery, Project Director.

Inspiration

Vintage sewing patterns are a wonderful source of inspiration for costume designers and wardrobe stylists.  The pattern illustrations are an invaluable resource for period detail including combining colors and accessorizing.

Two fashionable styles from Simplicity, circa 1941.  A simply chic dress with a two-piece look and a stylish peplum suit.

4 fabulous looks from 1940's McCall Patterns.  Clockwise from left:  A suit with a fly-front jacket, a contrast Redingote, a unique cape style, and a classic collarless jacket.  [Love that hat!]

A smart grey suit from McCalls, circa 1952.  Note the use of brown and pale yellow in the accessories that gives this suit a look of elegance and refinement.

A classic 1950's three-piece swing style ensemble from McCalls.  Love the tweed with contrast lapel and cuffs.

A Well-Suited Hollywood Production

Between takes Madra Lord wears a smartly tailored suit ensemble from a scene in her new film, The Black Widow. The film's costume designer took her inspiration from the classic 1940 edition suit featuring a longer length, notched collar, nipped-in waist, and an unexaggeratedly broad padded shoulder. The new, shorter length skirt is still long enough to cover the knees when you walk.

The versatile jacket can be successfully paired with a variety of skirt and even hat styles. This dashing two-piece suit from New York Patterns includes a flared skirt [#1358].

A fabulous suit from Falkenstein is paired with a delightful turban from Lilly Dache. Photo by Horst for Vogue.

The Black Widow Madra Lord appears courtesy Monolithic Studios, produced in cooperation with Mel Odom and Ashton Drake.

Costume Credits:

OOAK suit and hat are from The Couture Touch. Fur from PD Root. Scarf from Mattel. Gloves from Ashton Drake.

You might also enjoy....The Classic Tailored Suit - 1940 Edition

Utility Chic

From war-time London, 1940's.....

Autumn 1944

The interplay of seams, pockets, and pleats were the hallmark of the British utility suit during WWII. Wartime shortages and rationing gave rise to this functional yet stylish, well-cut, and well-made design. The tailored silhouette featured a longer length jacket with boxy square, padded shoulders and a slightly nipped-in waist paired with a shorter, just below-the-knee skirt.

A model checks out the new utility suit.
Photo by James Jarche for The Daily Herald. Courtesy Granny Chic Gal

Miss Gene Marshall

American film star Gene Marshall shows off her utility chic by pairing a striped linen skirt with the smartly tailored, fur-trimmed jacket from D.A.E. Originals' "Business Class" ensemble. Felt tilt topper and skirt are from The Couture Touch. Scarf is from Mattel. Purse is from PD Root. Shoes and gloves are from Integrity.

Gene Marshall

Spring suits in soft boucle wool, Spring 1942.

For the home seamstress, a sewing pattern for the new longer length tailored jacket and an alternative version with short sleeves, perfect for Spring.

A trio of war-time suits featured in the September 1941 issue of Vogue Pattern Book.

London, 1940's. Understated elegance against a backdrop of ruins.
Lee Miller photo courtesy Vintage Everyday

"Fashion is Indestructible"
Digby Morton suit. Cecil Beaton photo. London, 1941.

Credits:
Fashion in the Forties by Julian Robinson.
British Vogue, Autumn Forecast and Fabrics with Vogue Pattern Book supplement, September 1941.

Gene Marshall is the incomparable "Symphony in G" by Ashton Drake. Body by Integrity.

Madra Loves Barbie

Yes, even Monolithic Studios' diva extraordinaire Madra Lord has a soft spot for Barbie. After all, those Wisconsin gals have to stick together!

"Spotted in Manhattan" Madra Lord

Miss Lord pays homage to her diminutive friend by carrying a delightful miniature replica of Barbie's 1962 hatbox case from Hallmark's Keepsake Ornament series. Suit is from D.A.E. Originals. Additional accessories include gloves from Ashton Drake, hat and earrings from The Couture Touch, and necklace/bracelet set from StrayCat.

Vogue Special Design #S-4567

This vintage 1954 Vogue home sewing pattern was no doubt the inspiration behind D.A.E. Originals' luscious suit.

"Postcards from Cannes" Madra Lord

For the 2003 Paris Fashion Doll Festival, Madame Alexander created this divine gown similar to Barbie's iconic "Enchanted Evening" (1960-63). Gloves, fur, and waist corsage are from Ashton Drake, shoes are from Integrity, and purse is from Dressmaker Details. Miss Lord is coiffed in a "Johnny" wig from Monique.

Illustration from a vintage Barbie booklet.

Inspired by.....Chanel

In Paris, Gabrielle Chanel designed a deceptively simple, collarless jacket that has become a fashion icon. Executed in jersey or tweed, the jacket often featured braid trim, metallic buttons, and pocket detailing. It was modern, chic, and comfortable. Paired with a slim, well-fitting skirt, the suit epitomized the classic look of the late 1950's and early 1960's.

Vintage McCalls sewing pattern.

Included in Barbie's 1959 wardrobe, was a nod to the Chanel jacket. Commuter Set (1959-60) featured a two-piece navy cotton jersey suit, and a white satin sleeveless body blouse for elegant dinners. A casual blue and white mini-checked blouse was also included along with a delightful three-flower silk hat, gloves, jewelry, shoes, and hatbox.

Illustration from a vintage Barbie booklet.

Mattel's Dusk To Dawn Gift Set from the 2001 Barbie Fashion Model Collection included a similar Chanel-style suit re-interpreted in timeless black. A legendary classic look perfect for a legendary diva's wardrobe.

Dusk to Dawn Barbie styled by The Couture Touch.

An Iconic 1959 Sheath Dress

Nothing could be more chic than the modern, sleek lines of a surprisingly flattering, form-fitting sheath. 

The Apple Print Sheath #917 (1959 - 1960) was a smart, figure-hugging dress that accented Barbie's every curve. The rolled collar and delightful print made this an eye-catching ensemble. The identical sheath was also paired with a black faille coat in one of the most coveted outfits from the 900 series, Easter Parade #971 (1959). It was Haute Couture at its finest!

Photo courtesy fashion-doll-guide.com

The sheath saw its greatest popularity during the 1950's and 1960's. Its simplistic design gave the wearer a sense of glamour and sophistication. In 1962 Mattel created the Fashion Paks for Barbie that included the Silk Sheath (1962 - 1963). The slim skirt and fitted bodice were accented with a wider rolled collar and self-bow accent. The sheath was available in pale yellow, black, turquoise, red, green, white, and golden yellow. 

Bias rolled collar sheath pattern with interesting seam detailing designed by Luis Estevez.
Made by McCalls exclusively for The Quaker Oats Co., 1959.
Photo courtesy vintagepatterns.wikia.com

A decade earlier, Dior created an antithesis to his New Look called the "Vertical Line", a sleeker sheath with fitted bodice and a longer, pencil-thin skirt. It often featured a scoop or boat neckline enhanced with collars and bows.

Photo by Gordon Parks, 1949.
Courtesy glamourdaze.com

The versatility and elegance of the iconic sheath dress make it a must-have for every miniature fashion diva's wardrobe.

Credits:

The Models & Fashions:

Trench Setter Barbie from the Barbie Fashion Model Collection wears the apple print sheath from the vintage reproduction Easter Parade (1994). Bubblecut wig was borrowed from a vintage Fashion Queen. All from Mattel.

Holiday Hostess Thanksgiving Feast Barbie wears a vintage pale yellow silk sheath. Dress & accessories are from Mattel. Purse is from Randall Craig.

Trench Setter Barbie wears an OOAK periwinkle sheath ensemble from The Couture Touch. Purse & bracelet are from Randall Craig. Shoes & earrings are from Mattel.

Bibliography:

Barbie Fashion, Vol. 1 by Sarah Sink Eames.

History of the Sheath Dress from the fashion archives at startupfashion.com

The Second New Look of 1949 from glamourdaze.com

Tour d'Argent Re-Imagined

Tour d'Argent
Photo courtesy D.A.E. Originals

D.A.E. Originals "Tour d'Argent" costume, from the 2005 Vivian & Monty Jet Set Romance Collection, is a faithful recreation of Christian Dior's 1947 "Mystere" black wool crepe coat. The late afternoon coat dress features a pleated green collar and matching skirt inset of iridescent satin organza.

Mystere coat by Christian Dior.
Photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe for Harper's Bazaar courtesy fitnyc.edu

Although I love the original design of Tour d'Argent, which I purchased on the secondary market, the pleated collar did not lay correctly. So you probably can guess where I'm going with this.....Tour d'Argent, re-imagined!

Miss Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall wears a re-styled Tour d'Argent, now re-imagined in redingote style. A redingote is a light-weight flared coat secured at the waist and took its inspiration from historical riding attire. The 1940's and 50's versions were often paired with a coordinating print dress.

1950's Dress with Redingote
Courtesy betsyvintage.com

1950's Redingote ensemble
courtesy vintagepatterns.wikia.com

1950's Redingote with collar
courtesy vintagepatterns.wikia.com

1940's Redingote courtesy sovintagepatterns.com

Credits for Miss Marshall's restyled costume:

Underneath Tour d'Argent is the skirt from Fashion Plot and blouse from Turbulence. Accessories include the purse from Lucky Stripe and gloves from Dark Desire. All Ashton Drake. Hat is from Sandra Stillwell. Layered bow accents are from various outfits. Everything's Coming Up Roses Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

A Paris Adaptation

Gene Marshall

Mademoiselle Gene Marshall of Monolithic Studios wears a wine two-piece dress accented with brown satin piping designed by miniature couturier PD Root of "Maison PeDais". Complementing the chic ensemble is a dramatic, rich brown hat borrowed from Mattel's Publicity Tour Barbie doll, gloves from D.A.E. Originals, bracelet from Integrity, and earrings from The Couture Touch. The inspiration for Mme. Marshall's dress could very well have come from this Advance Import Adaptation pattern. These sewing patterns were based on trends and styles originating in Paris during the 1950's.

Advance #75

Advance sewing patterns were sold exclusively at JC Penney from 1933 until 1966. In 1948, Advance created a premium line of patterns called Advance Import Adaptation designed for the fashion-forward home sewer. Here are a few favorites courtesy vintagepattern.wikia.com

Advance #42 

Advance #61

Advance #51

Credits:

Blueprints of Fashion, Home Sewing Patterns of the 1950's by Wade Laboissonniere.

Vintage Pattern Wiki

"Phoenix" Gene Marshall is from Mel Odom and JamieShow. Wig from Time of Doll