From Sketch to Costume

The costume designer often begins with a sketch of an idea.  "To sketch an idea is the surest way to capture it, the clearest way to explain it. "  Patricia L. Rowe

Irene's sketch of the suit worn by Joan Crawford in "They All Kissed the Bride"
(Columbia, 1942).

Irene Lentz-Gibbons, known simply as Irene, developed a style of boldly signed fashion sketches that became her trademark.  She was a successful designer of not only costumes for film but of the personal wardrobes of Hollywood's most noted stars.

Joan Crawford in the suit by Irene.

Sketches were also commonly utilized within the pages of fashion magazines such as Vogue.

This 1943 illustration from Vogue London highlights fashion collections designed under wartime regulations.  On the left, a tailored suit in oatmeal tweed by Bery.  On the right, a grey tweed coat from Brenner Sports.

Credits:

In a Glamorous Fashion, The Fabulous Years of Hollywood Costume Design by W. Robert Lavine. 

Shorthand Fashion Sketching by Patricia L Rowe.  Fairchild Publications, New York.

Fashion Illustrated, A Review of Women's Dress 1920 - 1950 by Deborah Torrens.

Man-Tailored Glam

Select a tailored jacket that takes its cue from menswear.....Add stylish accessories......The result is effortless forties sophistication.

Monolithic Studios' film star Gene Marshall wears the ultimate man-tailored jacket borrowed from Mattel's James Bond.  Hat, handbag, and earrings are from Ashton Drake.  Gloves and brooch are from Integrity.  Scarf is from Sandra Stillwell.  Skirt from The Couture Touch.  Phoenix Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.

Film diva Joan Crawford in a double-breasted pinstriped suit from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Hat and gloves are from The Couture Touch.  The dramatic fur is from PD Root.  Top from Sandra Stillwell.  Shoes from Integrity.  Cigarette holder is from Ashton Drake.  Miss Crawford is a repainted "Pin-Up" Gene Marshall from Ashton Drake, artist unknown.

Miss Marshall strikes a pose in the jacket from Ashton Drake's Star Wardrobe Collection.  Vintage buttons replace the original ones.  Hat, gloves, scarf, and corsage are from The Couture Touch.  Cigarette holder is from Mystyna.  Skirt from Sandra Stillwell.  Handbag unknown.  White Orchid Gene Marshall is from Jamieshow.

Additional Credits:

Styling from The Couture Touch.

Publicity Shoot

Reprising Joan Crawford's role in a remake of the 1932 film Grand Hotel, Monolithic Studios' star Miss Gene Marshall poses for a black and white publicity shot.  Dress from Robert Tonner's Joan Crawford Collection.  Purse and shoes are from Integrity.  Styling from The Couture Touch.  Best Bet Gene Marshall, re-coiffed in a blonde Harlow wig and enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Joan Crawford in Grand Hotel (1932).
From the MGM Collection.

Note the interesting asymmetric collar variation and button detailing of the original dress designed for Miss Crawford by Adrian.  Photo is from Gowns by Adrian, The MGM Years, 1928-1941 by Howard Gutner.  Harry N. Abrams, Inc.

Hats They Choose

When an actress is her own costume designer for her off-screen role, what does she wear? These three busy, beautiful stars were invited to come to our studio and bring their favorite hat. Here are the results.

Joan Crawford

Miss Crawford graciously stopped by our studio on her way to a benefit luncheon wearing a stylish checked topper perfectly coordinated with her jacket ensemble. Hat, jacket, necklace and earrings are from The Couture Touch. Gloves are from PD Root, handbag and bracelet from Integrity. The belt was borrowed from J'Adore Gene Marshall. Underneath is the strapless black sheath from Cherry Smash.

The asymmetric topper utilizes the same fabric as the covered buttons on the jacket. The floral trim was recycled from an Ashton Drake hair ornament. Miss Crawford was originally a Pin-Up Gene Marshall (artist unknown).

Ivy Jordan

Miss Jordan, who prefers being behind the camera instead of in front of it, drove up to the studio wearing a smart royal blue fedora accented with a dramatic feather and netting detail. Hat and fur from miniature furrier PD Root, jacket from The Couture Touch, and earrings from Ashton Drake. Dress is a dyed version of Croquet, Anyone?

Gene Marshall

Miss Marshall arrived in a tweed jacket and black skirt. The hat she chose - an extravagant red felt topper. Hat and scarf from The Couture Touch, fur drape from PD Root, jacket from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.

3 Ways To Wear A Pinstripe Suit

Joan Crawford (my repainted "Pin-Up" Gene Marshall, artist unknown) demonstrates how to change the look of her favorite pinstripe suit from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.

The dramatic boucle hat with vintage feather spray and coordinating color-blocked gauntlet gloves, both from The Couture Touch, gives this suit a sophisticated edge.  Fur stole from PD Root, black knit top from Greene and Lam's "A Woman of Means" ensemble, shoes from Integrity, cigarette holder from Ashton Drake.

A different look with softer color accents and a mix of patterns.  The delightful pink and black houndstooth hat and purse set is from Ashton Drake,  neck scarf from Sandra Stillwell's "Bandolier Morado" ensemble, fur from Greene and Lam's "A Woman of Means", gloves from Integrity, and shoes from Tonner's Joan Crawford Collection.

The pinstripe suit and bold shoulders became synonymous with Joan Crawford after her Oscar winning performance in the 1945 film noir classic "Mildred Pierce".  D.A.E. Original's dramatic fur cape from their "Star Maker" evening ensemble provides the strong shoulder line to this classic suit.  A "diamond" brooch was added to the "Bandolier Morado floral scarf at the neckline.  Gloves and purse from Integrity, shoes from Joe Tai, and the felt tilt topper from The Couture Touch.

Backdrop from RaiHing

The Stars at Monolithic Love Adrian

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Moss Rose Ivy Jordan wears an emerald green satin gown inspired by legendary Hollywood Costume Designer, Gilbert Adrian.  This sophisticated 1930's evening ensemble is from "Olympia" Gene Marshall by Integrity.

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Joan Crawford in the original white silk crepe gown with black bugle beads.  From "Letty Lynton" (MGM, 1932). 

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Ivy Jordan, Lady Director, means business in Greene & Lam's "A Woman of Means" suit ensemble from Sandra Stillwell's Hollywood Ahoy 2009 Convention.  It was inspired by a costume from the film "Chained" (MGM, 1934).  The shoes are from Integrity and the cigarette holder from The Couture Touch.

Joan Crawford with Otto Kruger from Chained

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It's a Wrap Zita Charles wears a fabulous Judy Owen's recreation of an Adrian costume from "No More Ladies" (MGM, 1935). 

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Joan Crawford in the stunning wool crepe suit and matching wide brimmed hat from "No More Ladies".

A Hot Day in Hollywood, 1930 - 1950

Join me for a summer stroll through the decades with Hollywood stars Gene Marshall, Madra Lord, and Joan Crawford.  It's going to be a hot day in Hollywood folks.....

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Golden Riviera Madra Lord (Integrity) looks surreal in Tonner's delightful Tyler sweater (a la Schiaparelli) layered over her sleeveless white dress.  Shoes are also from the original outfit.  Purse from Integrity, bracelets from Tonner, gloves from Ashton Drake, and OOAK hat from The Couture Touch.

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Cinema Siren Joan Crawford is ready to lunch at the Press Club in Tonner's Brenda Starr "Press Club Luncheon" 1942 ensemble.  Earrings from PD Root.

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A restyled Simply Gene Marshall (Ashton Drake) is simply fabulous in D.A.E. Original's "Steppin Out", a delicious 1940's ensemble.  Love the dramatic hat and lace corsage accents.  The shoes and purse are borrowed from Tonner's Brenda Starr.

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Bronze Madra Lord from The Steppin' High Collection (Integrity) looks cool and fresh in "Spotted In The Park", a 1950's halter style dress.  Designed by Veronica Alvarado, Young Designer of America.

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Best Bet Gene Marshall (Ashton Drake) plays the 50's bombshell in the wiggle sheath from "Little Blessings" designed by Vince Nowell.  Atomic sunglasses from Integrity, shoes from Joe Tai, bracelet from Ashton Drake, lucite purse and cig holder from The Couture Touch.  Best Bet Gene has been wigged and her original body replaced with an articulated body from Integrity.

Set Credits:    Table and chair from Gene's Patio Set (Ashton Drake)
                      Accessories from A Hot Day in Hollywood Set (Ashton Drake)

Joan Crawford Selects A Chic 1930's Suit

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Tonner's Award Nights Joan Crawford from the Hollywood Ahoy Convention selects various pieces from Gene Marshall's wardrobe for a chic 1930's suit ensemble fit for a star. 

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The jacket is from Ashton Drake's Doing Her Part, Black linen shirt, velvet straight skirt, and purse from Bogue's Vogues, fabulous fur and hat from PD Root, gloves from The Couture Touch, cream ascot from Ashton Drake's Turbulance, cig holder from Ashton Drake's Anything But Nice.  Pin from unknown source.  Joan wears her own shoes.

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This photo of popular 1930's German actress, Martha Eggerth, was my inspiration for Joan's chic daytime ensemble. Eggerth emigrated to the United States due to the political situation in Germany.  She was highly successful in such Broadway hits as "The Merry Widow" and "Polonaise".  She also appeared in several films most notably with Gene Kelly and Judy Garland in "For Me and My Gal (1942).