Unexpected Assistants

It just takes a small amount of color to assist in brightening neutral tones as well as black.  The addition of these bright assistants provides unexpected touches that lift the mood and spirit of the woman who wears it.

Bold red enlivens a striped tailored suit worn by film star Gene Marshall.  Suit, hat, scarf, and jewels are from The Couture Touch.  Handbag from Ashton Drake.  Gloves are from Sandra Stillwell.  Cocoa Crisp Gene Marshall is from Integrity.

In the October 15, 1941 issue of Vogue magazine, these uplifting pops of color were referred to as "Bright Assistants".

For late afternoon, a pink sweater with matching gloves uplifts a black suit.  The simple addition of a pink bow on a fur muff along with a black hat accented with pink floral trim can have the same uplifting effect.  Green gloves matched to shoe laces and jewels are another bright idea.  Illustration is by Rene Bouet-Willaumez (RBW) for Vogue.

Passionate purple provides an inspiring pop of color for director Ivy Jordan's tailored ensemble.  Jerkin, skirt, hat, and gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Shirt is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Cigarette holder is from Mystyna.  Lady Director Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

Next Time:

Learn how to make Miss Marshall's Fashionably Forties Felt Tilt Topper.  After all, you just can't have too many hats!

September Seasonal Accessorizing

Transform a jacket by adding braid or cording trim.  Depending on how it is used, the effect can either be subtle or dramatic.

Ivy Jordan

Even a small touch such as black cording shaped into a cluster of medallions to form a pocket motif adds distinction to a tailored jacket.  Suit ensemble is from The Couture Touch.  Gloves are from Integrity.  Handbag from Randall Craig.  "V for Tea" Ivy Jordan is from Integrity.

During WWII unrationed braid was available in a variety of colors and unique designs.  In addition, furniture departments carried fringed sofa edgings that could be creatively utilized as trim for clothing.  Here are two examples from the September 1941 issue of British Vogue magazine.

Madra Lord

Black loop braiding adds panache to Integrity's remodeled suit [Sparkling Sepia].  Following the seam line, the braiding was hand tacked to the jacket and the ends were tucked under the hem.  Hat and gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Scarf is from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from an unknown designer.  Spotted in Manhattan Madra Lord is from Jamieshow.

This Harzfeld's department store fashion ad from the September 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar features a Nettie Rosenstein beige and black wool suit trimmed with black passementerie.

Madra Lord

From the archives, the white crepe jacket [Par Excellence] from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection is embellished with black trim giving it that distinctive forties look.  Scarf and matching gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Hat and skirt are from Sandra Stillwell.  Booties and doggies are from Ashton Drake.  Deep Rose Madra Lord is from Integrity.

"Hollywood Director"

This 1946 fashion ad for a Rosenblum tailored suit pays homage to lady directors in this illustration titled "Hollywood Director" by artist Ben Stahl.

Wearing a casually chic ensemble, Monolithic Studios' actress turned director Miss Ivy Jordan is hard at work on the set of her new film.  Jerkin, belt, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Shirt is from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Skirt is from Sandra Stillwell.  Gloves from Ashton Drake.  Cigarette holder is from Mystyna.

Credits:

Harper's Bazaar, October 1946.

Lady Director Ivy Jordan appears courtesy Monolithic Studios and Integrity.

From Sketch to Costume

The costume designer often begins with a sketch of an idea.  "To sketch an idea is the surest way to capture it, the clearest way to explain it. "  Patricia L. Rowe

Irene's sketch of the suit worn by Joan Crawford in "They All Kissed the Bride"
(Columbia, 1942).

Irene Lentz-Gibbons, known simply as Irene, developed a style of boldly signed fashion sketches that became her trademark.  She was a successful designer of not only costumes for film but of the personal wardrobes of Hollywood's most noted stars.

Joan Crawford in the suit by Irene.

Sketches were also commonly utilized within the pages of fashion magazines such as Vogue.

This 1943 illustration from Vogue London highlights fashion collections designed under wartime regulations.  On the left, a tailored suit in oatmeal tweed by Bery.  On the right, a grey tweed coat from Brenner Sports.

Credits:

In a Glamorous Fashion, The Fabulous Years of Hollywood Costume Design by W. Robert Lavine. 

Shorthand Fashion Sketching by Patricia L Rowe.  Fairchild Publications, New York.

Fashion Illustrated, A Review of Women's Dress 1920 - 1950 by Deborah Torrens.

Peplum Panache

Miss Gene Marshall

The dress from Madame Alexander's "Grand Hotel" is transformed with a detachable peplum in a charming summer print.  In addition, the original black bow trim was replaced with the matching dramatic bow recycled from Integrity's "Ladies Who Launch".  Gloves and jewels are from Ashton Drake.  Handbag from PD Root.  Detachable peplum, hat, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  To Have and To Hold (restyled) Gene Marshall, enhanced with an Integrity articulated body, is from Ashton Drake.

Set of tie-on peplums in 3 styles from Butterick, circa 1947.

Peplums were a popular fashion trend in the 1940's.  Throughout the decade the home-sewing industry offered detachable peplum patterns as a way to utilize small fabric yardages as well as increase the versatility of a basic dress or skirt.

Butterick dress pattern with a detachable tie-on peplum option, circa 1947.

Credits:

Vintage pattern illustrations from CoPA Commercial Pattern Archive.  Joy Emery, Project Director.

March Seasonal Accessorizing

Begin to add a touch of spring with detachable collars and cuffs in bright colors and patterns as well as in white.

Playful dots on a bright green background gives film star Madra Lord's basic black dress a chic way to transition to spring.  Dress [Dark Desire] and belt [Embassy Luncheon] are from Ashton Drake.  Gloves from Sandra Stillwell.  Hat, earrings, and detachable collar and cuffs are from The Couture Touch.

Featured in the February/March 1940 issue of Vogue Pattern Book, a detachable bib-style double collar trimmed with ruffles in fresh white.  Matching narrow cuffs and a delightful white floral accented hat complete the look.

Miss Lord shows her softer side in an alternative variation:

A subtle play of patterns highlight this stylish bib-style collar and matching cuffs.  Dress [Dark Desire], belt [Embassy Luncheon], handbag [Star Wardrobe Collection], and restyled hat [Doing Her Part] are all from Ashton Drake.  Gloves from Sandra Stillwell.  Detachable collar and cuffs are from The Couture Touch.

A yoke-style collar with matching cuffs in a spring floral pattern gives Gene Marshall's "Little Black Dress" a fresh, updated look.  Dress and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Restyled hat is from Sandra Stillwell.  Purse from Madame Alexander.  Detachable collar and cuffs are from The Couture Touch.


Careless Kisses Madra Lord is from Integrity.

Cocoa Rose Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

The 1940's Turban

The turban has been a renowned fashion staple with women for a number of decades.  In the late 1930's milliner Lilly Dache revived the turban elevating it to high fashion prominence.  Carmen Miranda, the Brazilian singer, gave the turban enormous publicity by wearing it festively adorned with fruits, flowers, and feathers.

The turban was available ready to wear or could be wrapped by the customer when she put it on.  They were available in a variety of fabrications and suitable for day or evening wear.  The stars from Monolithic Studios prefer their turbans wrapped by their personal stylist.

Diva Madra Lord goes for drama wearing a turquoise blue turban trimmed with a floral corsage accented with beading.  Top and corsage are from Ashton Drake.  Hat, gauntlet gloves, skirt, belt, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Pool Pose Madra Lord is from Integrity.

Two illustrations from McCall Patterns showing turbans paired with dresses for a chic daytime look.  Turbans could be cleverly manipulated into an incredible variety of flattering styles.

Large cabbage roses with stems accent Gene Marshall's jewel-tone turban.  Dress and jewels are from Madame Alexander.  Fur drape and purse are from PD Root.  Hat and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Gloves and Miss Marshall are from Ashton Drake.

Miss Marshall in a chic, asymmetrically draped turban.  Jacket from Jamieshow.  Handbag from Sandra Stillwell.  Restyled jewels from Facets by Marcia.  Belt from Integrity.  Hat, gauntlet gloves, scarf, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Gene Marshall is from Ashton Drake.

Pink tulips are thrust through loops in Loretta Young's cashmere turban by Lilly Dache.  Jewels by Flato.  Photo by Rawlings for Vogue, 1940.

An animal print turban tops Miss Lord's smart suit ensemble punctuated by a pop of color.  Restyled suit is from Integrity.  Fur from PD Root.  Handbag and gloves are from Ashton Drake.  Hat, ascot, belt, brooch, and styling are from The Couture Touch.  Moulin Noire Madra Lord is from Ashton Drake.

Credits:  

Color and Design in Apparel by Bernice G. Chambers, 1942.

Inspiration....Illustrated

A wonderful resource for design inspiration, the fashion illustration depicts period styles with clarity in details. Here are two 1940 originals from my personal collection. Enjoy!

Artist: Eunice Moray. Also signed Miss Doctoroff, perhaps an instructor.
Notations indicate that this was a costume suit for the Duchess of Kent, #17, 1940.

Artist: S. Morreale.  Notations indicate the costume is made from doeskin.
The Havelock is of canary yellow silk jersey.  [A havelock is a cap with fabric hanging from the sides and back.]