Wednesday, January 19, 2011

The New Look

The New Look was primarily the creation of one man, Christian Dior.  After the fabric restrictions of World War 2, The New Look utilized luxurious fabrics and lavish designs.  Skirts became full, sweeping to almost ankle length (11 inches from the ground).  Each panel of a New Look skirt was individually lined with an extra ruffle at the waist to make pleats or gathers jut out sharply over the hips.  Jackets were figure hugging with decollete necklines, long narrow sleeves, and often accented with pockets, tucks, and button details.  To achieve the ultra narrow waistline, Dior devised a special built-in "waspie" corset. 

The New Look suits and dresses were accompanied by the most glamorous hats.  From dramatic, wide brimmed black hats to the delightful head-hugging hats that were artfully decorated with elaborate embroidery and trimmings.

For his first major collection in the Spring of 1947, Dior created his now iconic "Bar Suit".

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The "Bar Suit" was comprised of a silk shantung fitted jacket with sloped shoulders, cinched waist, and padded hips.  The black pleated wool skirt was full and longer in length.  Accessories often included a wide brimmed hat, umbrella, pumps, and short leather gloves.  Photo courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Collection.


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In 1996, Mattel produced the 50th Anniversary Christian Dior Barbie Doll.  This wonderful miniature replica of the famous "Bar Suit" is worn by "The Interview" BFM Silkstone Barbie doll.  Leopard muff borrowed from another Mattel ensemble.


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In 1999, Ashton Drake produced "Love, Paris" Gene Marshall, a dressed doll designed by Jose Ferrand.  It consisted of a grey fitted jacket over a full circle skirt with the new longer length, supported by an underskirt of ruffled black organza that provides fullness and lift.  It is worn by Integrity's Silhouette of the 1950's Ivy Jordan.


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Original accessories consisted of a pink wide brimmed hat and matching purse.  For this photo shoot, I used the hat from Ashton Drake's "Lucky Stripe", black beaded gloves from AD's "Embassy Luncheon", umbrella from Fashion Boulevard, and pumps from Joe Tai.


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