American designer, Sally Milgrim was a dressmaker to several Presidential wives including Mrs. Roosevelt, Mrs. Hoover, and Mrs. Coolidge. She was also the head designer for the House of Milgrim for more than twenty years. She designed wearable costumes for American women including suits, hats, gloves, and shoes. In addition to their retail stores, they also had a wholesale division selling original Milgrim fashions and hats to other stores.
What fascinated me about Milgrim was that she made up her first original ideas in doll dresses. Customers saw them and custom ordered the fashions for themselves. She was expert at making clothing to flatter any figure type. The following photos of Milgrim ads were found in various issues of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. Although Sally Milgrim designed a wide range of fashions including evening wear and accessories, I've focused this post on highlighting her suits, hats, and a daywear dress from the 1940's.
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Here is a full page ad for Milgrim fashions and hats found in the October 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar. The top left hat is described as a light blue velour, spiked with blue and black coq feathers. The fabulous black felt fez hat in the middle of the page is accented with braided soutache that forms graceful silk tassels to the shoulder. Both hats shown were available in other colors. The top right ensemble is described as a Milgrim Original, color against black. The bodice is accented with black jet cabochons. The rayon crepe dress was available in black combined with Midas gold, emerald green, turquoise, or red. Retail price was $49.95. The dress on the lower left features soft folds and a belt studded with jewels. This Milgrim Original was available in green, red, brown, and black rayon crepe. It retailed for $49.95.
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This smart Milgrim tailored felt hat called "Alert" was available in several colors. The price was $15. Ad from the September 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar.
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I love the color blocking details on this classic mid 40's Salymil Junior suit by Milgrim. Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1945.
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Beautiful sleeve shaping highlight this mid 40's Milgrim Original suit made from Forstman Doeskin. The fur ascot and muff are delightful additions to the clean lines of this ensemble. Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1946.
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A fabulous late 40's Milgrim Original dress with an asymmetrical peplum and button detailing made from Forstman Sandretta. Photo from Vogue, 1949.
Biography resource from "Color & Design in Apparel" by Bernice Chambers. Published 1945.
Thank you for posting this. Sally was my grandmothers sister, and I grew up around the retail side of the business. I am so happy to see our hertiage live on.
ReplyDeleteThank you Robin for your lovely comment. Her designs are an inspiration. I especially loved her hats! Melissa
ReplyDeleteI am curious if you have a higher resolution version of the Avedon photo. I'm collecting these old images as no one in the family kept record of them.
ReplyDeletehello,
DeleteI have just come across a stunning Milgrim hat, looks like mid to late 20's. will be happy to send you a copy via email. getting ready to list it for sale on ebay and etsy. Ciao, Annie at
skybluemaine@roadrunner.com
I wish I did Robin.
ReplyDeleteDo you know where I can find record of her creating her designs as doll dresses? I never heard this before. I was told she was a model, and would draw dress concepts in between shows. People saw them and requested her designs. If you can send me in the direction of the doll info I'd appreciate it.
ReplyDeleteI got the information from the book, Color and Design in Apparel by Bernice G. Chambers, published in 1945 by Prentice-Hall. It mentioned she started out as a model for the firm and soon sensed a need for other types of clothes for the store's clientele. It states she made up her first original ideas in doll dresses. Customers would then place an order. Hope this helps Robin.
DeleteI work for the good will and happened to find a doll today... OLD with an outfit on it that says milgrim..... I can Take Pic and e mail it to you Robin if that would help! My e mail is draygonfly30@ gmail. Com. My name is Christa
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