Vintage Inspiration: 1940's Hats

For your viewing enjoyment, here are a few 1940's era hats from my private collection modeled by a vintage mannequin display head.  Enjoy!

Labeled "Ere Nouvelle, Paris, New York"

Labeled "The Dayton Company, Minneapolis"

No Label

No Label

Labeled "New York Creation, Original Chapeau by Louise"

Spectator Sports

The 2000 Ashton Drake Gene Marshall costume "Croquet, Anyone?" is a perfect example of the early 1940's fashion trend called Spectator Sports.  The look is "mannish" in a feminine way, highlighted by tailored garments and accessories in natural fibers.

The original "Croquet, Anyone?" outfit designed by Lynne Day is white linen with powder blue topstitching.  As you may remember in an earlier post, I dyed it a rich charcoal grey.

"Azure Elegance" Madra Lord wears my dyed version of "Croquet, Anyone?".  I designed the hat and purse to go with the new look.  The gloves are from Ashton Drake, and the fabulous shoes are from Integrity.  I was so pleased with the results, I decided to pick up another outfit to dye.  This time I wanted to go lighter in color. 

A restyled "To Have and To Hold" Gene Marshall wears my latest version of "Croquet, Anyone?".  This color was called "wild mink" in the 1940's.  The dress turned out great, the jacket did not!  I guess it pays to be a fabric hoarder, because I found this wonderful vintage fabric in my stash that went perfectly with the new dress color.  I took apart the jacket to make a new pattern resulting in this revised version.  The hat is from Ashton Drake's "Fashion Plot" ensemble, fur drape from PD Root, and gauntlet gloves from The Couture Touch.

Set Credits:
Backdrop from http://www.raihing.com
Table from CED
Phone from Ashton Drake's "Hot Day in Hollywood" Accessory Set

Day Dresses for the 1940's Femme Fatale

I love this dress from Ashton Drake's "Croquet, Anyone?" on its own, and I love it's new color called "wild mink".  Accessories include the dramatic hat from "Fashion Plot", fur drape and purse from PD Root, gauntlet gloves from The Couture Touch, and shoes from D.A.E. Originals.  A restyled "To Have and To Hold" Gene Marshall enhanced with an Integrity articulated body is the femme fatale.

The femme fatale's little black dress.  Gene wears "Dangerous Curves" dress and fur from the 2007 Gene Rare Deal Convention.  Tilt Topper and gauntlet gloves are from The Couture Touch, shoes and purse from Robert Tonner.  Worn by Ashton Drake's "Spring In Central Park" Gene Marshall enhanced with an Integrity articulated body.

A close-up of Gene's new topper with an asymmetric brim designed to be worn at an angle.  Pin from Ashton Drake and earrings from The Couture Touch.

Set Credits: 

CED Table

Backdrop from  http://www.raihing.com

The Doll as Mannequin

In "Dictionary of Costume and Fashion", author Mary Brooks Pickens defines the mannequin as a model of the human figure for display of garments, hats, furs, etc.  From early 15th Century "milliners' mannequins" that were used to display the latest fashions for customers to the Theatre de la Mode fashion dolls to the miniature counter display mannequins and sewing kits found in fabric stores of the 1940's and 50's, mannequins have long been a source of fascination.

Sydney Australia, 1947

These wonderful department store mannequins are the big sisters to the miniature mannequin.  They were used to display fashions in an effort to entice the customer into the store to purchase.  Photo courtesy of  vintagevenus.blogspot.com

Supporting the war effort, this patriotic store window from the 1940's pays homage to the various women's uniforms of WWII.  Photo courtesy of  johnnydepp-zone.com

Love this window display from B. Altman & Company in NYC, circa 1940's.  The impeccably dressed mannequins provided inspiration for my own "window" display.  Photo courtesy of  The T-Cozy

Here's my take on the B. Altman window display with Mel Odom's 15.5 inch Gene Marshall doll as my mannequin.  And a good excuse to utilize the stand!  Details of the dolls and fashions in my next post.

 

In the Spring of 1945, Paris Couturiers began to rebuild their industry by creating a traveling exhibit of more than 200 miniature 27.5 inch mannequins dressed in designs by such notables as Balenciaga, Lanvin, Balmain, and Worth.  Pictured from left to right:  Marcelle Alix day ensemble, Simone Cange hat; Anny Blatt suit; Henry a la Pensee day ensemble, Jacques Heim hat.  Photo courtesy of  http://enchantedvintageclothing.com

Margit Nilsen, a noted mannequin sculptor, designed this marvelous 22 inch miniature mannequin used by the Traphagen School of Fashion.  Many of her mannequins were also sold to McCall Pattern Company where they were used as counter displays in fabric stores.  Photo courtesy of  http://designshowcasestyle.blogspot.com

Isn't she fabulous!  A 1940's mannequin in original costume.  She is approximately 21" high.  Most of these display mannequins had removable arms for ease of dressing just like their full-size counterparts.  If you would like more information, I highly recommend the following books: 

"Miniature Mannequins, Identification & Price Guide" by Doris Mixon. Published by Hobby House Press, Inc.

"Theatre de la Mode: Fashion Dolls: the Survival of Haute Couture".  Published by Palmer/Pletsch.

Vintage Inspiration: 1940's Frocks

Who doesn't love those fabulous daytime frocks of the 1940's?   Vintage sewing patterns have long been my favorite go to resource for inspiration.  For your viewing enjoyment, here are scans from various McCall's magazines from my personal collection illustrating the latest pattern designs in summer daytime dresses.  And each one accessorized with a marvelous hat!   Enjoy!

Smart Styling for Victory

During the make do and mend era of the early 1940's, women were encouraged to conserve and stretch their wardrobe either by adding new accessories or restyling existing pieces.

A jerkin, which can easily be made from an old coat or suit, is an excellent way to update last year's dress.  Add a matching hat and gloves and you have a smart and stylish new ensemble.   On The Avenue Gene Marshall wears an OOAK blue wool herringbone tweed jerkin over the black crepe dress from Ashton Drake's  "Little Black Dress" costume.  Jerkin, belt, hat, and gauntlet gloves are from The Couture Touch, necklace from Ashton Drake's "Star Wardrobe Black Accessory Set", purse from "A Lady Knows" ensemble.

Don't throw away that old and out-of-style hat!  Why not reshape it and add some new trim detail.  Lunch at the Green Parrot Violet Waters wears a restyled brown velveteen hat that was originally a pillbox hat from Tonner's Kitty Collier "First Class" ensemble.  The new military-style shape is accented with vintage black grosgrain trim and a hat pin.  Restyled hat and OOAK jewelry from The Couture Touch, fur drape and matching purse from PD Root, black top from Ashton Drake's "A Lady Knows", belt from "Little Black Dress", skirt from Tonner's TDLM "Le Petit Ensemble Noir", gloves from Integrity.

Backdrop from http://www.raihing.com

A Spanish Influence

Here's a little cocktail number with a Spanish Influence.  Recognize any of the pieces?

Ashton Drake's "Song of Spain" halter top and bolero were layered over the strapless sheath from the "Black Ribbon" costume to create a sensational cocktail dress, circa 1943.  The original gold beads were easily removed from the top and jacket.  Accessories include the fur stole borrowed from Golden Gate Glamour's "Bandolier Morado" suit ensemble, shoes and purse from Robert Tonner, OOAK cocktail hat and gauntlet gloves from The Couture Touch.  OOAK jewelry set unknown.  My model is "Star Entrance" Gene Marshall from Integrity.

Tip:  Position the back of the halter top just above the sheath so that the top will snap securely.