Design Detail: Pockets

Pockets come in many styles and shapes and can be pleated, gathered, trimmed with buttons, piping or top-stitched.  They are not only functional but give a professional touch to garments.  Pocket designs in the late 1930's and early 1940's ranged from utilitarian to decorative.  Recently I was browsing the André Fashion Studios website for inspiration and came across these fabulous designs.

Click HERE to visit the André Fashion Studios website.

Heartless

"Heartless"
2000 Madra Lord Costume

Tim Kennedy designed this fabulous, over-the-top costume for Madra Lord for the film Somewhere Summer.  There are 3 pieces to the set:  a strapless pea-green dress with draping at the hips,  a separate blouse of white organdy with black polka dots and exaggerated sleeves, and a bolero-style vest.  Also included is a heart-shaped hat, a white with black dotted floral ornament, heart-shaped handbag, shoes, hosiery, jewelry, and a tiny stuffed "cocktail olive".

Fresh from the salon, "Film Fatale" Gene Marshall shows off this marvelous ensemble perfect for Spring 1952.  Shoes are borrowed from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection, and the OOAK cigarette holder is from The Couture Touch.

This heart shaped, off-the-face hat style is perfect for Gene's new hairdo.  Earrings are from Integrity.


"Heartless" Madra Lord costume and "Film Fatale" Gene Marshall are from Ashton Drake.  Gene's articulated body is from Integrity.  Backdrop from RaiHing

More Fabulous Finds from the Costume Vaults at Monolithic

Here's another peek inside Monolithic Studio's Costume Vault for some fabulous finds in 1940's daywear modeled by Miss Madra Lord and Miss Violet Waters.

"Flame" Madra Lord from Integrity's Stepping High Collection in "Jonquil Sass" from Robert Tonner's Monica Merrill series.  The classic styling of this coat and dress ensemble lends itself well to any era.  The addition of the fabulous black velveteen tilt hat from PD Root gives this costume a 1940's look.  The combination of yellow with the lush black fur collar and cuffs on the coat gives this ensemble a dramatic flair. I also love the unexpected black and white gingham lining.  The chain belt is actually part of the necklace from Ashton Drake's "Little Black Dress" ensemble, umbrella from Fashion Boulevard, shoes from Integrity.  The "telephone purse" was fashioned from a vintage pin. 

Unusual and dramatic hats were a hallmark of the late 1930's and early 1940's.  This fabulous tilt topper is made from wool felt and accented with a marvelous vintage feathered bird trim.  The hat, gauntlet gloves, and striped shell are from The Couture Touch.  The classic plaid jacket from Ashton Drake's Star Wardrobe Collection is paired with a black velveteen skirt from Bogue's Vogues.  Fur stole and purse are from PD Root.  Shoes from Robert Tonner.  Jewelry and cigarette holder are from Ashton Drake.  Modeling this stylish ensemble is "Siren in the Night" Madra Lord.

"Like A Fox" Madra Lord from Ashton Drake wears "Arrival at Port" a fabulous suit ensemble borrowed from Robert Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Gloves are from Integrity, and jewelry from Ashton Drake.  Sorry Brenda....I think Madra is keeping this one!

A change of accessories gives this dress from Ashton Drake's "Warmest Wishes" a sophisticated edge.  The circa 1948, rust-colored, knit dress with teal chiffon cowl and matching hip drape was designed by Tim Kennedy.  I added the dramatic fur-trimmed hat, matching purse, and fur stole; all from PD Root.  The gloves and shoes are from Ashton Drake, the jewelry from Integrity.  Modeled by "Lunch at the Green Parrot" Violet Waters from Ashton Drake.

Additional Credits:
Click HERE to purchase PD Root's fabulous fur pieces.

Click HERE to purchase RaiHing photo backdrops.

Design Inspiration

André Fashion Studios, a New York design firm specializing in ladies coats and suits, sold fashion sketches to various clothing manufacturers.  Thanks to a collaboration between the Fashion Institute of Technology and New York Public Library, there is a wonderful digital archive of these fantastic fashion drawings and sketches from the 1930's to early 1940's.  The archive lets you refine your search by year, season, design detail, or famous designers such as Schiaparelli, Creed, or Paquin, to name a few.  The following is just a small sampling of fashion sketches from the archive. 

Click HERE to visit this fabulous archive.  Enjoy!

Queen of the Prom

Spring is in the air and a young girl's fancy turns to prom.

An exquisite reproduction Barbie doll proves she is still the Queen of the Prom in Mattel's reproduction of "Senior Prom" (1963-64).  A dreamy confection of tulle and satin, this icy blue and sea green strapless gown remains a perennial favorite.  Pearl accented open-toe green shoes comes with the ensemble.  I added the opera-length white gloves and pearl jewelry.

Promenade

"Promenade" is a fabulous orchid suit accented with navy and white gingham.  It was designed by Tim Kennedy exclusively for Ashton Drake's 1997 Gene Marshall Collection, Circa 1945.   Gene is out for a stroll with her delightful pair of terriers, "Dottie" and "Dashiell" in the original look.  I decided to kick it up a notch and give this Spring ensemble a chic and sassy alternative.

What a difference an 1/8th of a yard of gingham makes.  By changing the style of the hat and replacing the original white gloves with gingham ones, this ensemble takes on a totally different attitude.  My model/muse is "Symphony in G" Gene Marshall, the purse on the table is from "Sunday Afternoon" ensemble, and the chair and table are from Gene's Patio Set.  All by Ashton Drake.  The actual color of the suit is more of a periwinkle blue than the orchid color pictured in the promotional shot.

I removed the veil from the original hat and added a scarf tied as a turban with the ends pulled through the opening in the crown.  The dragonfly "pins" are actually buttons I found at a craft store a few years back.  The miniature navy and white gingham cotton fabric was found at my local Hancock Fabrics.

Barbie Returns to 1950's Glamour

Gay Parisienne, from 1959, is probably the most desirable fashion for collectors of the Barbie doll.  Shown only in Mattel's 1959 catalog along with Roman Holiday and Easter Parade, it evokes the glamour of the late 1950's when Haute Couture was at it's peak. 

I'm excited that the Barbie Fashion Model Collection is finally returning to it's high fashion roots.  I recently received two of the new dolls: Walking Suit and the 2012 Fan Club exclusive, Afternoon Suit.

Walking Suit is a beautifully tailored, houndstooth suit with a fabulous blouse with fringed bow detailing at the neckline.  Accessories include the unique gauntlet gloves, umbrella, hat box, purse (not shown), stilettos and stockings.  Instead of using the black veiled hat that came with the ensemble, I remade a hat from Gene Marshall's Little Black Dress costume.  It was a wired, black velvet headband hat that I coiled to form a pillbox style.  The trim is original to the hat. 

This is my take on the Afternoon Suit.  I paired the belted jacket with a long and narrow black skirt.  I added the matching pink corsage and replaced the original pink buttons on the front of the jacket to black for contrast.  The hat is from an early Candi doll ensemble that I accented with the bow and feather trim from the original hat.  The structured handbag and jewelry are from D.A.E. Originals.  My model/muse is a wigged Suite Retreat Silkstone doll from BFMC.  Unfortunately there were some QC issues with my doll.  The hair was a choppy mess, so she will probably get a new wig.  The jacket was not as crisp looking as in the publicity still, and it did not fit well over the full skirt of the original costume.  With all that said, I am still happy with how the ensemble turned out.  I'm looking forward to what the rest of the year holds for the BFMC.

Set Credits:
Backdrop wall from RaiHing
Flooring is scrapbook paper
Table is the BFMC vanity with the mirror removed
A tea cup from a miniature tea set holds a miniature floral arrangement
Picture on table is a Mel Odom reproduction illustration
Leopard "statue" is a collectible trinket box from Hobby Lobby

1959 Gay Parisienne costume and doll are reproductions from Mattel.