An American Original, Spring 1941

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An American Original designed by Nettie Rosenstein, Spring 1941.  This dramatic ensemble is made of Crown tested Rayon fabric. Rosenstein was an acclaimed fashion designer based in New York between 1913 - 1975.  She was particularly renowned for her "little black dresses" as well as her printed dresses with matching gloves.  She designed a wide range of fashions and accessories including suits, evening wear, and striking costume jewelry.

This wonderful illustration is by Carl Erickson for the American Viscose Corp.  Erickson, who simply signed his illustrations with "Eric", became a staff illustrator for Vogue magazine in 1923.

1940's Style Barbie

I guess by now it's no surprise that I love the glamorous fashions of the 1940's.  In addition to the wonderful suits, daywear dresses, and tailored eveningwear, women were elegantly accessorized from head to toe with hats, gloves, furs, and fabulous jewels.  I would love to see Mattel do a 1940's series for the Silkstone BFMC that also included period hairstyles.  A few years back they did do "Great Fashions of the 20th Century", the "Hollywood Movie Star Collection", and Christian Dior's 50th Anniversary Barbie doll that featured his iconic "Bar Suit" from his New Look collection.  In the meantime, here is a look at some original fashions inspired by the Fabulous 1940's!

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This fabulous mid-forties era OOAK doll is from the design team of Hunter-Goldblatt.  They specialized in vintage-inspired designs of the 20th Century.

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In the early 60's, my Grandmother made this classic sheath for my Barbie doll.  I gave it a glamorous 1940's look with the addition of a cocktail hat and a fur draped over the shoulder.  The hat is from Ashton Drake's Gene Marshall collection.  My lovely model is Betty Draper from Mattel's Madmen Silkstone series.

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Tweed Indeed Silkstone Barbie from the BFMC gets a new hairdo to go with her circa 1947 OOAK cocktail ensemble from The Couture Touch. 

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Delphine Silkstone Barbie from the BFMC models a circa 1948 OOAK daywear ensemble from The Couture Touch.

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One of the jewels in my OOAK collection is this superb Vivette prototype fashion from D.A.E. Originals called "Autumn Stroll", circa late 1940's.  My model is an early Silkstone Lingerie Barbie doll.

Fanciful Feathers

Feathers have long been used as decorations for women's hats up until the latter years of World War II when they became difficult to obtain.  After the war cock, pigeon, and glycerinized ostrich feathers were again revived.

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Not only did they utilize feathers, but sometimes the entire bird!  The latter half of the 1930's showed a variety of hat styles like this unusual white feathered bird hat.  Photo from a Vogue 1936 Elizabeth Arden make-up ad. 

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Vogue says:  "You'll be preening your plumage, this autumn - what with feathers on practically every other hat."  That was the caption for this wonderful illustration by Eric from Vogue, 1938.  The black felt tricorn hat is from Louise Bourbon.

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Here is a sensational Vogue cover from 1939.  The fur and feathered tilt hat is by John Frederics.  Photo by Horst.

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This show-stopping, mustard colored felt hat with fabulous ostrich feathers dates from the late thirties, early forties. Maker unknown.   From my private collection. 

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Olive green feathers completely cover this fantastic hat.  Note the two delightful birds in the front.  Labeled: Northridge, New York. Circa 1940's.  From my private collection.

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Turquoise feathers overlay this smart black felt tilt hat. Circa 1940's  Maker unknown.  From my private collection.

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Michelle Tibbetts designed this marvelous, miniature, feathered, cocktail hat for Jose Ferrand's "Cognac Evening" ensemble.  Circa 1951.  From the Gene Marshall Collection by Ashton Drake.  OOAK necklace and fur from PD Root.  My model/muse is Gil-ty Girl Gene Marshall from Integrity.

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Here is a feathered hat I designed for Ashton Drake's "Fit For a Queen" suit ensemble.  Fur from Affordable Designs.  My model/muse is Integrity's Blush Gene Marshall.  Hair by Jim Gaddis.

1940's Suits in Miniature, Part 2

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California Couture at its best!  Ashton Drake's Spring in Central Park Gene Marshall with an Integrity articulated body models "Hello Hollywood Hello" ensemble, circa 1941.  This impeccable suit was designed by Doug James for Ashton Drake's Gene Marshall Collection.  From the pleat detailing at the back of the skirt to the dyed-to-match fur trim, it exemplifies the best of couture in miniature.

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This fabulous early 40's era suit with two-tone detailing was part of the gift set called "Daily Threads" from the Integrity Gene Marshall Stardust Convention.  Ashton Drake's Queen of Hearts Gene Marshall with an Integrity articulated body is the model.  Whimsical hats paired with somber-colored suits were popular during the war years.

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Robert Tonner's "Par Excellence" jacket is layered over Integrity's "Cherry Smash" strapless black wool sheath.  "Par Excellence" jacket, hat, and hatbox are from Tonner's Brenda Starr Collection.  Modeled by Integrity's Ivy Jordan.

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Ashton Drake's Fashion Plot Gene Marshall wears Integrity's "Gil-ty Girl" suit ensemble.  OOAK hat from The Couture Touch, fur from PD Root, umbrella from Fashion Blvd.

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Gene is "Doing Her Part" for the war effort.  Ashton Drake's USO Gene Marshall wears a WWII era tailored suit.  The jacket is from Ashton Drake's "Doing Her Part", the skirt and shoes are from Tonner's Theatre de la Mode "La Petit Ensemble Noir",  blouse from Ashton Drake's "Turbulance",  leather-like gloves from Integrity, umbrella from Fashion Blvd, and the OOAK hat from The Couture Touch.

1940's Suits in Miniature, Part 1

Miniatures have always intrigued me, so it's no surprise that I would be drawn to the wonderful period costumes that were made for Mel Odom's Gene Marshall doll.  The 15.5" mannequin embodies the glamour of the Hollywood era of the 40's and 50's.  Her costumes are miniature versions of real clothes and include fabulous accessories such as furs, hats, gloves, jewelry, shoes and even hose.  For your viewing enjoyment, here are some of my favorite suit ensembles from the 1940's.

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"Hollywood Director Ivy Jordan reviews costume sketches with Madra Lord, the star of her latest film venture."   Pictured on the left:  Integrity's Ivy Jordan, Lady Director, wears Ashton Drake's classic "Travel in Tweed" navy suit, circa 1948 and her own blouse.  Suit designed by Lynne Day.  The OOAK hat and matching gloves are from The Couture Touch.  Pictured on the right:  Integrity's The Jeweled Cat Madra Lord is all business wearing Integrity's "Suited For Fur", a stunning grey wool suit with pink fur accents and pink accessories. 

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Ashton Drake's "Fit For a Queen" brown tweed suit gets a different look with an OOAK turban styled hat, leather gloves, and crochet pin from The Couture Touch.  Fur from P.D. Root, hatbox from Ashton Drake's Travel in Tweed ensemble.  The model is Integrity's Ivy Jordan, Lady Director, with a new hairstyle.  Suit designed by Lynne Day.

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Here is another fabulous suit designed by Lynne Day for Ashton Drake's Gene Marshall Collection.  It is called "First Stop Chicago", circa 1941.  The model is Ashton Drake's Siren of the Night Madra Lord with restyled hair and articulated body from Integrity.

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Integrity's club doll, City Sleeker Zita Charles is wearing a smart houndstooth wool suit with fur trim from the Gene Marshall, Star Wardrobe Collection by Ashton Drake. The wonderfully detailed embroidered gloves and purse are also from the Star Wardrobe Collection.  The hatbox is borrowed from Tonner's Kitty Collier.

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Ashton Drake's Filigree Gene Marshall wears "Good Bye New York", a sensational 1941 suit designed by Doug James.   The fez style hat and gauntlet gloves are from The Couture Touch. 
  
Credits:  Furniture from Liz Cole/Retros, telephone from Ashton Drake's Hot Day in Hollywood accessory set, portfolio & sketches from Ashton Drake.

House of Milgrim

American designer, Sally Milgrim was a dressmaker to several Presidential wives including Mrs. Roosevelt, Mrs. Hoover, and Mrs. Coolidge.  She was also the head designer for the House of Milgrim for more than twenty years.  She designed wearable costumes for American women including suits, hats, gloves, and shoes. In addition to their retail stores, they also had a wholesale division selling original Milgrim fashions and hats to other stores.

What fascinated me about Milgrim was that she made up her first original ideas in doll dresses.  Customers saw them and custom ordered the fashions for themselves.  She was expert at making clothing to flatter any figure type.  The following photos of Milgrim ads were found in various issues of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.  Although Sally Milgrim designed a wide range of fashions including evening wear and accessories, I've focused this post on highlighting her suits, hats, and a daywear dress from the 1940's. 

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Here is a full page ad for Milgrim fashions and hats found in the October 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar.  The top left hat is described as a light blue velour, spiked with blue and black coq feathers.  The fabulous black felt fez hat in the middle of the page is accented with braided soutache that forms graceful silk tassels to the shoulder. Both hats shown were available in other colors.  The top right ensemble is described as a Milgrim Original, color against black.  The bodice is accented with black jet cabochons.  The rayon crepe dress was available in black combined with Midas gold, emerald green, turquoise, or red.  Retail price was $49.95.  The dress on the lower left features soft folds and a belt studded with jewels.  This Milgrim Original was available in green, red, brown, and black rayon crepe.  It retailed for $49.95.

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This smart Milgrim tailored felt hat called "Alert" was available in several colors.  The price was $15.  Ad from the September 1942 issue of Harper's Bazaar.

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I love the color blocking details on this classic mid 40's Salymil Junior suit by Milgrim.  Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1945.

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Beautiful sleeve shaping highlight this mid 40's Milgrim Original suit made from Forstman Doeskin.  The fur ascot and muff are delightful additions to the clean lines of this ensemble.  Richard Avedon photo from Vogue, 1946.

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A fabulous late 40's Milgrim Original dress with an asymmetrical peplum and button detailing made from Forstman Sandretta.  Photo from Vogue, 1949.

Biography resource from "Color & Design in Apparel" by Bernice Chambers.  Published 1945.